The 15 Best Things we Ate in Spain (Reblog)

Leaving for a few weeks, so leaving an oldie but goodie….

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The Thai Diner Survival Guide

Why should you go?

Thai Diner (aka Uncle Boons 2.0) is one of the most popular if not the most poplar Thai restaurant in NYC that tourists generally dont know about. Dont worry locals, I’m not gonna change that as I dont have that kind of reach. But sharing is caring. One way you can check whether a place is touristy is simply by looking at Trip Advisor reviews compared to the more local Yelp, and Google. A whopping 26 reviews compared to 871 (Yelp), and 1569 (Google). Thats as local as it gets for a Manhattan establishment.

It took me a few visits to warm up to Uncle Boons, but I’m beginning to like Thai Diner even more. The space is more welcoming, and more comfortable (emphasis on more than the predecessor which was fairly uncomfortable). Love the decor, the Pure Thai Cookhouse-like Thai music. I never understood why so many ethnic places play American music. Who wants to listen to Sweet Caroline while munching on Szechuan food. Well, according to Trevor Noah its every single white person, but you know what I mean.

When should you go?

Its always busy, and waits are inevitable. They take a very limited number of reservations, so you can pretty much forget about reserving. But that just means you have a better shot at getting a table than popular places that do take full reservations. I call it the Via Carotta effect. If you are like us and have no problem combining lunch and dinner, than 4pm is your best bet. Even on Sundays there was no line at 4. By 6pm you are well fed and you are good for the rest of the day. Otherwise, come earlier, put your name down, and play tourist in NoLita/Little Italy/Chinatown.

What should you eat?

Its a smart mix of creative and classic. Every meal for many of us starts with the sick Disco Fries and ends with the Coconut Sundae. The latter is a masterpiece that includes candied peanuts, coconut gelato, coconut caramel, and to add much needed coconut flavor, toasted coconut. Another must is the crab fried rice. The Khao Soi is very solid but messy to share if more than two. The Turmeric Roti with the curry dip is terrific, as well as the Phat See Ew with fried chicken (some prefer the other chicken option, but I like the fried). The only dish I’d avoid is the Green Curry with braised beef. Sounds great, but large chunks of meh quality beef isnt doing it for me.

Who should you bring?

Ok, this survival guide is getting ridiculous Ziggy. But hear me out. This is not your typical Thai eatery in NYC where I normally have to do some begging for a little bit of heat. And while its not exactly “Thai spicy”, BYOB (Bring your own Bounty) like Ugly Baby, its bald flavors arent for everyone. Since the spoiled Mrs Z doesnt always remember the names of places we visit, I have to refer to them in other ways. Thai Diner is the “coughing place” after a memorable spicy coughing attack one time. Meaning its not the place for your mother in law’s 70’s bday celebration. Take adventurous eaters that appreciate good food and can handle a bit of heat.

What about Brunch?

Yes, please. This is one of the areas that sets Thai Diner apart, and where the creativity shines. Its a popular Brunch option for many, and one of the reasons is the outstanding, hurt so good, egg sandwich. Its wrapped in Roti that absorbs much heat so its a bit difficult to hold with bare hands, but its worth it. Thai flavors mixed with eggs, even in the morning is like magic. The Thai Tea Babka French Toast is popular as well.

What should I wear?

Khakis, loose clothing, funeral sunglasses for those not used to bald flavors.

Categories: New York City, SoHo, NoHo, Nolita | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Txikito – Just Basque a Move

Whenever someone asks for Spanish Tapas recommendations, if its not in Chelsea it doesn’t enter my mind. Just like Thai restaurants in Hell’s Kitchen, there are mysterious forces that attract some of the top Spanish talents to the neighborhood. As you may know, we are fans of Z-List long timer Tia Pol, but you also got the excellent Salinas, Mercado Little Spain, Casa Dani, El Quijote, Socarrat, and some others. Txikito, smack in the middle of them all, might just be the most important of the bunch.

A 15 y/o in super competitive NYC is approaching legend territory. It’s one of those places Ive been wanting to try for years, but somehow other mysterious forces prevented it, until an impromptu visit the other day. Impromptu and popular places as such means some luck involved. With my Islanders finally winning an important game the other day, and Mrs Z asking me to buy a lottery ticket now that the jackpot is over a Billion (as if 900 mil is pocket change), I might actually do just that.

Two open bar seats had our names on it, though we were asked not to linger for more than two hours. Not only perfectly fine with us, but I had another reason to leave before it got dark. I was sporting new sunglasses and left my regular glasses in the car. We were reminiscing about our California road trip ages ago where I lost my glasses somewhere off route 1 and had to wear prescription sunglasses for the last two days of the trip. I kid you not, the same evening I lost them we heard “I wear my sunglasses at night” on the radio. Yes, it was radio times.

Txikito is Basque, but as with so many ethnic places trying to introduce us to a specific cuisine, it feels more Spanish than Basque. Other than some of the famed Pinxos like Gilda (a skinny homage to Rita Hayworth), the famous Basque cheesecake, and the occasional very Basque mammoth Turbot, my eye didnt spy much Basque. It spied a Russian salad, found all over Spain for some reason. But dont get me wrong, I like this menu. Like a lot…

I dont recall ever eating Octopus Carpaccio this good. A place just outside Taormina’s (Sicily) old town comes to mind but thats about it. Silky smooth buttery perfection. A signature thats been on the menu since 2008. Another winner was a hearty plate of Spanish white beans with shrimp and mussels. The accompanied bread helped us scarpetta the heck out of it.

The expertly cooked Cochinnilo (suckling pig) was exactly as expected. Just crispy enough outside and supremely tender and flavorful inside. Its an ugly looking dish until you start digging in. I care for you readers, just not to the point of videotaping everything like other influencers. But cutting this in slow mo is a droolworthy exercise. Love the Frisée addition but wish it came with another item like potatoes.

The only thing I didnt care for was the pricy white Asparagus special with scallops. Initial bites were good but that one-tone sweetness got boring in a hurry. La Viña-esque cheesecake was satisfying. Esque means “we tried” here, although its been a few years since our visit to La Viña, San Sebastian where the cake was invented. Salinas nearby also serves a fine version.

Other than me still trying to figure out whether I like standalone Spanish red Vermouth, I think I covered everything. Nice atmosphere, smart decor. Although I didnt get a very good look as putting my sunglasses was like announcing “weirdo at seat 12” to the staff. I dont think I’ll wait another 15 years to Basque another move as I do want to try the rice dish and the rest of the menu. Maybe just stay away from the specials

Txikito
240 9th Ave (Chelsea)
Recommended Dishes: Octopus Carpaccio, Beans with shrimp and mussels, Cochinnilo, Cheesecake

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Raoul’s – A Date with Quality

When I was 5 years old the world was a crazy place. Wars, chaos, crime, Froot Loops, drugs dominated. 50 years later not much has changed. But much did. I’m sure you all had similar conversation on the differences between growing up then and now. By the time I was 5 I already had my fare share of vodka that I mistook for water, and cigarettes that I did not mistake for something else. A 5 year old smoking after a rough day in day care is unimaginable now.

I may have told this story, but I recently lost some weight. I thought it was good news, but apparently to doctors its a red flag. I was bombarded with questions including whether or not I smoke(d). I answered semi-jokingly that I smoked when I was 5-6. But the elderly doctor didnt quite get the joke, or heard me properly, put me down as an ex-smoker and sent me for a chest MRI and other tests. I will never joke with doctors again. I thought I learned that lesson during the vasectomy.

When I was 5, opening a restaurant in Soho was much different than today. In the 70’s Soho was a gritty neighborhood, full of starving artists, factories, and deserted streets. Even in the 80’s when we moved to Brooklyn, we would steer clear of that area. But somehow two brothers from Alsace, France managed to open a place that not only survived 50 years, but booked solid every night these days.

Just like the nearby Minetta Tavern and a few other places, stepping inside Raoul’s is like stepping inside a movie set. Not surprisingly it was featured in movies/shows such as The Departed, and Sex and the City. Its history reads like a Netflix series, with at least one episode about discovering Thomas Keller, and some about the many famous artists that used to hang out there.

Raoul’s is an old school French bistro, with the atmosphere and art to match. Much of the art hasnt changed in many years, and we got a good look at it from our booth right under its famed nude painting. They are known for the Steak au Poivre, a secret bar burger that’s no longer a secret and martinis. Their classic Aviation cocktail made me shop for the ingredients as soon as I got home. I need a larger house for my bar.

As much as I complain about pricy bread courses, I almost always get them and enjoy them. No exception here with the Sourdough Baguette, Country Wheat, room term butter, sea salt, and the kind of radishes you stare longer than usual at the supermarket.

As far as Pates go it doesnt get much better than Raoul’s Pate Maison. French Ham and Compté Beignets with truffle remoulade were explosive little schweddy balls. Probably truffle oil in the remoulade but it works here. Maine Lobster Tortellini were supremely flavorful as well but too small of an app to share for four. The Jambalaya Risotto was another outstanding dish.

But the reason I took my family here was the Steak au Poivre. Not quite the tenderness and flavor of say, a Claro Tenderloin, but this was a decent size, and better than some I had in Paris. Perfectly cooked meat and just peppery and creamy enough. Pictured is a half. When I grow up I would love to have a whole one.

Bread pudding was solid NOLA-esque, but also too tiny to share, even though we were too stuffed anyway at this point. The profiteroles would have been a better option. My oldest gave Raoul’s a complement very few outside EWZ, and Hungry Onion (where some ex Chowhounds hang out) understand. “Foxface quality”

Raoul’s
180 Prince St (Soho)
Recommended Dishes: Bread, Pate Maison, Beignets, Tortellini, Jambalaya Risotto, Steak au Poivre, Bread pudding

Categories: New York City, SoHo, NoHo, Nolita | Tags: , , , | 1 Comment

10 Reasons Why I Like Ulivo

Ulivo, in the heart of NoMad isnt particularly known like a Lilia, Rezdora, or a Via Carota. It’s just one of a myriad of regional Italian in that part of the city, and unless you live nearby, it’s sometimes easy to forget it even exists. But there’s a reason it survived 8 years including a pandemic. 10 reasons in fact.

Fresh Pasta Galore – Gotta start with the bread and butter. On my first visit I was introduced to what I dubbed The Widow Maker. Lets just say its not exactly the pasta maker my kids bought me for Xmas. This is what you need in order to create a pasta centric menu, responsible for a dozen items in this case. Add a seasoned Sardinian chef and proper raw materials, and you get magic on a plate. Whether its Paccheri with braised tuna belly, Pici, Pappardelle or anything else that starts with P, you are in for a treat.

Underrated Pizza – While the focus initially was on fresh pasta, at some point they added another “Widow Maker”, an imported pizza oven producing Neapolitan pies within seconds. A capable pizzaiolo and top notch ingredients of course help. Even with this pasta lineup, I have a hard time not ordering at least one Diavola on every visit.

Seasoned Chef – He wont like me calling him seasoned (twice now), but Chef/owner/pasta wizard Emanuel Concas has been around, and can flat out cook. Since completing culinary school in Italy, he’s been cooking all over the world before settling in NYC. He started showcasing that talent in Hell’s Kitchen’s Mercato, his first restaurant, before opening Ulivo with his partner. When you meet him, you realize how passionate he is about food in general, including Asian and other cuisines.

The dependable starter – In a city that’s becoming fully a la carte including bread, olives and other used to be free items, its always refreshing to get a delectable free starter once in a while. Every meal in Mercato and Ulivo starts with fresh bread and a lentil dip plate that we lick to the point of no washing necessary.

The location – I may be fishing here, but the location in the heart of NoMad can not be any more central. No matter where I am in the city it seems, I’m fairly close to Ulivo.

Great Cocktails – Beverage director Antonello Iacca has been mixing them since he was a child. That explain some of the driving I’ve seen in Puglia. The simple but potent Gin-zilla is an award winner, but everything I’ve had here is nicely balanced.

The Olive Oil – As the name suggests, EVOO is an important aspect here, and in Italian cooking overall. To the rest of us its a concept, but for this Italian generation using the highest grade raw materials they can find is the only way they know.

Island Touch – Another thing that separates Ulivo is Sardinian and Sicilian specialties you wont find anywhere else, like Malloreddus alla Campidanese, Busiate, and the more common rigatoni alla norma.

Busiate con Pesto alla Trapanese – Worth its own entry. Its simple and unique at the same time. The consistency of the Busiate, along with the almonds, tomato, basil and plenty of garlic. The only dish I’ve ordered every single visit I think.

Easy to pop in – This is important to me. So many restaurants in NYC call themselves “corner neighborhood Italian”, yet require a month in advance to reserve. Some places are just more under the radar than others, and that doesnt necessarily make them subpar. I like that I can just be in the neighborhood with the family, and pop in unplanned. That to me is a neighborhood joint.

Ulivo
4 W 28th St (5th/Brdwy)
Recommended Dishes: Prosciutto San Daniele, Pizza, Paccheri, Busiate, Gnocchi, Tiramisu

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Claro – From Oaxaca With Love

Fuck congestion pricing. There you have it. The first EWZ post that starts with the F word. I felt it was time. For many of us, driving to the city is expensive as it is. We have to pass multiple bridges and tunnels, some of the most expensive in the world, just to face yet another hefty tax for the privilege. And no, there’s practically zero chance that I will rely on a bus late at night, during bad weather and other situations. We’ll most likely still make plenty of trips as my oldest lives there, but I may need to pivot.

That pivot will require to rely more on less discovered neighborhoods like Gowanus, Brooklyn. Go ahead, I’ll wait while you Google it. You can be a 10 time visitor or even a local that never heard of this neighborhood. Although its tucked between the more famous and eatery heavy Park Slope and Carroll Gardens, you only find yourself in industrial Gowanus if you go to Whole Foods. It looks and feels like a Red Hook extension. The kind of neighborhood where dads playing ukuleles in front of babies in a brewery isnt out of the ordinary.

Add Claro as another reason to go. From the outside and in it looks like your typical rustic Red Hook/Gowanus neighborhood joint. But the food tells a different story. It may sound like a cliche, but if there’s one thing I learned in Mexico City last year, was that Mexican food in the US is quite different than Mexican food there. You expect it but dont realize the extent when you spend time there. Claro, although Oaxacan by nature, is closer to the full service CDMX experience than any place I’ve been to in NYC.

You can visit Claro a dozen times without realizing it boasted a Michelin star until last year. The prices do reflect higher end Mexican, but that was also the case before the Michelin star. Many restaurants like Rezdora, Jeju Noodle Bar often change menus and even decor to try match Michelin expectations, but you get the sense that Claro just wanted to stay the same. Maybe that’s why they couldnt maintain the star.

Masa, Mezcal, and superb raw materials is the name of the game. A concentrated menu that will make you want to bring friends that appreciate good food. While picky eaters can manage, there’s not enough variety to satisfy. Though the excellent Mezcal lineup and based drinks can keep them entertained.

We started with Tuna Tostada, the only dish I’ve had here before. The tuna was bright and flavorful, as were the rest of the ingredients. But its closer to a refreshing salad than a Tostada. Not a bad thing. The Garnachas de Venado was the first moment of brilliance. Two thick fried corn tortillas shaped like small hockey pucks, topped with braised venison. But what made the dish was the accompanied Curtido (fermented cabbage). Another winner was the outstanding Black Bass with green mole, topped with smoked Trout roe, and another beautiful concoction of Brussel sprouts, cabbage, and more.

But the piece de resistance was the Mole Negro. As the hefty price ($68) suggests, its more of a dish for two. It featured a succulent Bone Marrow with fried mole that added a nice texture, and a perfectly cooked short rib sitting on a bed of their famous mole. But it was the ugly duckling, a sad looking Tenderloin that was one of the best cooked meats I’ve had in a long time. It comes with Negi Onion (fancy for scallions), and their excellent tortillas. Their Masa is made in-house from imported Oaxacan corn.

Arroz con Leche with pineapple was the perfect finish to a rare flawless meal. Not too sweet, and not the soupy variety. As for drinks, you got your Mezcal pairing options, but we opted for Mezcal based drinks which were both well balanced and superb. Jungla – Milk Piunch for me, San Pascualito Rey for her. Go!

Claro
284 3rd Ave (Brooklyn)
Recommended Dishes: Tuna Tostada, Garnachas de Venado, Black Bass, Mole Negro, Arroz con Leche

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Taco Tuesday – Taqueria Ramirez

If you are local, unless you’ve been living under a rock, or Staten Island, you probably heard of Taqueria Ramirez by now. The Greenpoint jewel has quickly become NYC’s taco mecca, with people making the pilgrimage from far and wide. The Los Tacos of the locals if you will. The place is so busy that if the line doesnt snake around the block, you might as well get on it. Like the infamous Cronut, this is why it took me years to finally try it. One of the perks of living in options galore NYC. FOMO is easy to avoid.

But on the first spring-like day of the year I figured it’s time. We got there 10 minutes prior to opening and the line already reached the corner. Its that uncomfortable moment where you are the one blocking the crosswalk for a few good minutes. Sorry 5 year old on a tiny pink bike. You need to go around me and risk death. I got more important business to take care of.

Taqueria Ramirez opened during the pandemic (Sep 21) by Greenpoint residents who grew up in CDMX. Its a small mystery that in a city of over 300,000 Mexicans, many of which in the food business, it took this long. But once you dive into the preparation and the technique, you begin to understand why. Perhaps for the same reasons you cant get a NYC style bagel outside of NYC. Spoiler alert: Its not the water.

The result was pretty much what I expected. Best Mexico City style tacos I’ve had outside of Mexico City, but not exactly Mexico City quality. We tried three of the six tacos they offer. I regretted not ordering a 4th as soon as I placed my order. What was I not thinking. I’m finally here. But three turned out to be plenty and quite filling.

As good as it was, the Suadero, a cut of beef and preparation very rarely seen in NYC was probably my least favorite. The Pastor was solid, and plentiful. It’s not exactly as flavor packed as what you find in CDMX but enjoyable nonetheless. The Longaniza was the most distinct tasting of the three. Its chorizo on crack. I’d gladly order all three again.

The place is tiny, and finding an open seat is like finding a Palapa in Aruba after 6 am. But since people are not staying long (around 10-15 minutes), and with some seating areas outside (no tables) everyone manages. The popularity makes the entire experience a bit hectic. But it was fun watching the crew of 5 at work.

One handles the Pastor (a meat “Trompo” that trumps every trompo I’ve seen), one in charge of the Tortillas (a bit on the greasy side), and you got the “punisher” that puts the final touches with his torch. Another in charge of the traffic, and one of the register. A well-oiled machine, making something out of nothing. And the area is nice enough to explore to make a half a day out of it. Go!

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Tasty Tours – Eating With Ryan

Yep, I took a food tour in NYC. Something I havent done since I took a relatively mediocre Free Tour by Foot tour of East Village. Free Tours and food dont really go well together in NYC, even if free means very cheap ($1-$2 each item). But generally for me, taking a food tour in NYC always felt like an experienced auto mechanic getting oil change lessons. Probably boring, but I may learn a thing or two.

Well, I actually did. I learned a few things about Washington Square Park, and even Taylor Swift, among other tidbits I never picked up in the almost 40 years of living here. For a while I thought a Swifty was a cleaning supply. I just figured it would be something fun to do with my daughter. Playing tourist in my own town, and someone else feeding me for a change, I must say it felt good. The element of surprise, coupled with some of the tastiest snacks in the area, and a fun guide to boot.

Tasty Tours is a newish tour operator started by a young enthusiastic fella named Ryan. As with any food tour, you have to have the right personality for it. The reviews suggested it, and I’m happy to confirm. Ryan is easy going, funny, and just the right guy you want to spend a few hours with. As a tour guide you feel obligated to share your knowledge, often ignoring the risk of overdoing it. But Ryan got the formula right. Just the right amount of history, trivia, customer engagement, and even the proper amount of food.

Although Ryan doesnt mind me sharing the food we ate, I rather not. I think the lack of any preconceptions and the element of surprise is part of the fun. But if you want to know, you can easily find that info on his site. Its a nice mix of classics that you may already know about and some less known spots. I can tell you that out of the 6 stops, only one of them I probably wont return, and at least two of them I’d like to return very soon. I’m sharing one food picture, but I wont tell what it is. You’ll need to guess 😉

One thing I miss the most from my guide days is that moment right after a good tour. I felt that after this one. As I told Ryan, its unfortunately the bad ones that will stick out and become most memorable, as you are also in the mercy of the people you meet. Food tours is an experience at its core. Dont take one strictly because someone you know told you to take one. Take one if you want to meet a local and other travelers, learn a thing or two about the area you are visiting, and eat tasty food in the process. Come to think of it, who wouldn’t want that.

https://www.tastytoursnyc.com

Categories: New York City, West Village | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Anguilla – How to Gain 7 Pounds in 7 Days

One of my most popular posts and a lot of fun to update over the years was a similar title for TCI, where I offer a 7 day eating itinerary. Granted I havent updated that in over 5 years (blame Anguilla). Although this is the same concept, I will focus on my favorite 4 dinners and 4 lunches and will give suggestions on the rest of the week. While my three visits so far dont give me the same amount of expertise as the over 20 in TCI, I think I got a pretty good handle on things in tiny and delicious Anguilla.

7 Lunches

Sunshine Shack – A no brainer and not exactly a secret. It is a lot more popular these days than on our first visit. Still, this is a shack in its core, not a full blown restaurant. You’ll just need to wait a bit for the food. Get the frozen BBC (Banana Baileys Coconut) to start which will fill you up like an appetizer, to make that wait a lot less painful, and fun). There are only a few items on the menu. I prefer the chicken and ribs combo over the expensive lobster.

Blanchards Beach Shack – Another popular shack, but very different than SS. This is more of a full crew cross between a Caribbean shack and American fast casual. You got multiple windows for orders, pickup and drinks. Even in slower months expect lines to order and waits for the food (you get a buzzer). But its worth it for the crafty salads and sandwiches. Try the Jerk Burger.

Johnno’s – This pick might surprise the hardcore Anguilla fans. By day, a very low key, rustic joint, overlooking beautiful Sandy Ground. By night, well, I wouldnt know. I’ve only been during the day, and each time I got the quintessential Anguillan treatment, including fresh, well cooked food. And a strong rum punch to boot. Sunday is funday with live music. In a way Johnno’s reminds me of Flamingo’s in TCI. Try the steamed snapper with Fungi, and/or Shrimpi Scampi, as long as you forget everything you know about shrimp scampi.

Vincy – I’ve already written about Vincy. The restaurant is one of the newer kids on the block, but the talented Vincy the owner has been around. The view overlooking Sandy Ground adds to the atmosphere at lunch, and the food is not too shabby. Vincy keeps things relatively simple with the ingredient driven menu. Try the shrimp tacos and grilled snapper with lemon sauce.

The rest

Falcon Nest – Another casual shack/bar with a full menu of goodies. Try the seafood pasta

Trattoria Tramonto – Good place to hang out on a gorgeous beach. Try the Vongole

Tasty’s – Solid local cuisine for lunch or dinner. Try the seafood salad

7 Dinners

Jacala – One of my favorite restaurants in the entire Caribbean. Even now, without the Jac half (retired), hospitality and cooking at the highest level. Some like it for lunch, overlooking beautiful Meads Bay, but I think this is the type of meal that should be experienced at night. Its French at its core, utilizing local ingredients with the expertise of a seasoned master (the “Ala” part). Try the tuna tartare, the stupendous chicken, and grilled crayfish.

Hibernia – Another absolute must. You can pretty much copy and paste everything I said about Jacala above, except that its a very different place. A French and Asian mashup pioneer, opened before it even became a thing in Paris (today you can find them in almost every corner). And the museum-like environment and view is a major bonus. While I’m listing it for dinner, I think everyone should try to experience Hibernia for lunch at least once. Try the Foie Gras, smoked fish trio, any of the fish dishes, and homemade rum raisin ice cream

Straw Hat – Although not exactly new to us, its a new addition to the rotation. In fact I think we’ll make it our early first night meal from now on. It has just the right kind of “Welcome to Anguilla” thing going. You got the view of Meads Bay beach, great frozen drinks (BBC!), and expertly cooked food with a clever mix of local and eclectic items. Try the flatbread, goat curry, and snapper.

Blanchards – A 25 year old legend and one of the most popular spots on the island. I admit it took me a few trips to finally try it, as the menu looked a bit too New Yorkish for me. But I get it now. Just like its beach shack, a well-oiled machine by an exceptionally friendly and capable crew. Try the jerk chicken, and do not leave the island without trying the famous Cracked Coconut. Although the Bread pudding isnt too shabby either.

The rest:

Mango’s – Some of the island’s best and freshest seafood

Artisan – Solid Neapolitan pizza

E’s Oven – Popular with locals. Try the Pumpkin soup, goat curry, skip the steak

Categories: Anguilla | Tags: , , , , | 1 Comment

Anton’s – A Classic in the Making

I dont know why I havent written a post on Anton’s before. Well, I sort of know. I may have added it to the world famous Z-List (I was told by people from various countries) before Anton’s even opened. You see, I’ve been following Nick Anderer ever since I met him at a Gabriele Bonci / Katie Parla pizza event in Brooklyn years ago. He called the police on me twice but eventually just got used to it. Another rehashed joke. I know. I’ll be here all week, try the veal. 

Like Anton’s itself, Anderer’s resume reads like an homage to the classics. Tabla (under the great late Floyd Cardoz), Babbo, Gramercy Tavern, Maialino, Marta. I recall sitting at the Marta counter, watching him throw out pie after pie that looked perfectly fine to my lazy eye, but not perfect enough to him. But it was Martina, Marta’s baby sister where I began to understand his trendsetting ways. Martina was unlike any pizzeria we have, but NYC was just not ready for her yet. Great, now I have the Bonci TV show in my head, most likely for the rest of the day.

Partnered with beverage director and life partner Natalie Johnson, Anton’s is Anderer’s first. The duo not only bringing in a wealth of expertise, but managed to put together an all-star team that includes Otto’s long timer legend Dennis Mullally, among other capable hands. After five years that included a painful pandemic, its now a well oiled machine that’s consistently booked. Though it feels more like the prototypical village neighborhood corner Italian. I’ve seen it referred to as European, but I dont recall seeing Borscht on the menu. He does make killer Pelmeni, but he calls them “Ravioli”.

Has this happened to you? You buy a nice stinky Camembert in France, eat it in the hotel with a fresh baguette, and a nice Vouvray with your spouse, and before you know it you find yourself wondering outside with your PJ’s looking for the nearest garbage can at 2 am. Even when secured in the fridge, the stench can take over the room. Its the Durian of cheese. At Anton’s, two waiters were holding their breath while I was smelling the Camembert from different angles. No smell that I could detect. This was a mild one, but that creaminess, along with that Cherry Gastrique and baguette, a killer combination. A new must.

The Pâté Grand-mère and the Smoked Whitefish Salad are the old musts. My oldest said it was like breakfast at grandmas. I agreed but only because I didnt want to kill the moment. No grandma I know ever served me a whitefish salad like this. Another winner this time was a refreshing salad of winter citrus, fennel, pistachios.

The pasta course at Anton’s is why you need to bring friends. The Spinach-Ricotta Ravioli is one of the classics, though I skipped it this time to try others. The well balanced Fettuccine with Mutton Ragù is Rezdora-esque and our new favorite of the bunch. The Angel Hair Francese takes me to my happy place. Staten Island. Where I’m munching on baked clams at a random red sauce Italian. To me its the pasta version of baked clams rather than the intended Chicken. Not a bad thing. Bucatini Baczynsky, another classic from day one, was the weakest link this time, but its more of a testament to the others.

If there’s one more thing I learned from the Maialino and Marta days is trust the chickens. At Anton’s, the half bird is on the simple side, but just the right crisp and quite satisfying. You know its good when you keep reaching for it on a very full stomach and with plenty of high quality steak left. The expertly cooked Strip Steak Lorenz is another day one item. Pair it with the Spinach a la Noialles. Hmm, maybe its more European than I thought.

Another big plus at Anton’s is the well rounded wine list, including the offerings by the glass. Finish with the Apple Crisp a la Mode and/or Bourbon Pecan Pie, though I’m suspecting you cant go wrong with any of them. Anton’s has all the ingredients for a classic in the making. Go!

Anton’s
570 Hudson St (West Village)
Recommended Dishes: Camembert, Pate, Whitefish Salad, Ravioli, Fettuccine with Mutton Ragù, Angel Hair Francese, chicken, steak, spinach, Pecan Pie, Apple Crisp

Categories: New York City, West Village | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

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