A Seafood Mecca Worth Every Penny

Posted on February 2, 2026 by Ziggy

Finally made it to Josh Pinsky’s and Chase Sinzer’s Penny, the upstairs neighbor to big brother Claud. Same story as many of the spots we visit. Wait just enough time for the hoopla to settle down. With Penny, its still tough to make ressies on a whim, but fairly easy with a reminder two weeks out at 9 am. I dont get why it took so long for restaurants to switch from midnight to 9 am. Finally giving locals a better chance than some tourists.

The duo created something special with Claud and Penny in East Village. As long time readers know, I’ve been following Pinsky since the Momofuku Nishi days. I remember eating some nifty seafood dishes like skate wing, scallops, and one particular mammoth Lobster Spaghetti that would probably be double the price today. At some point Nishi was my favorite restaurant in the city. Pinsky, in Momofuku fashion, continues to set trends, not so much follow them.

So it wasnt exactly shocking when the sequel was seafood focused with a Ko-like bar setup. The surprise was when they billed themselves as a “walk-in seafood restaurant”, initially at least. With this type of hype, you need to time your walk-ins perfectly. By 6:30 on a Saturday the wait was at two and half hours. This also means of course, you are expected to finish in 90 mins, as so many places in NYC these days. In Curacao last week, we were warned at one place that we only had two and half hours to enjoy our meal. A luxury only available in the outer boroughs these days.

The seafood as expected was as perfect as it gets. Rivaled by places like Theodora, though a bit more refined and ingredient driven at Penny. Another bonus with the bar/counter sitting, unlike Theodora, you can actually talk to the staff, and no one shouts the orders right at your ear. The only complaints: Mrs Z was a little cold sitting close enough to the door, and at 5′2″ couldn’t reach the bottom of the bar stool. Maybe its time to introduce high chairs for adults, and make them elegant somehow.

The food rundown:

Penny Martini – I appreciate a short and to the point drink menu. Just get this if you are a martini lover or just enjoy them on rare occasions like me.

Sesame Brioche – Sexy is the first thing that came to mind (maybe just my mood at the moment). The shape, the warmth, the softness, with that room temp butter you can eat with a spoon. A must get.

Beets + Trout Roe – All kinds of surprises under the thinly sliced beets besides the roe, like raisins, and more beets. A borscht lover and hater delight.

Puntarelle – A superb special. Dont see this crispy chicory cousin outside of Italy much. This one comes with marinated tuna and a light anchovy vinaigrette. The veggies here dont get enough credit.

Tuna Carpaccio – So simple yet so good. Went very well with the onions especially, for me (olives for her). I’d add a few pink peppercorns myself but this was exceptional.

Seafood Broken Rice – Creamy, hearty, and light somehow at the same time. Like a cross between couscous and risotto with bay scallops, lobster, halibut and more. Every morsel produces different results

Halibut + Kohlrabi – Another sensational dish. Just like the rest of the dishes, ingredients pop including even dill in this case.

Ice Cream sandwich – Looks like something a 5 year old made with Wonder bread. But once you take the first bite, a wowzah. A carrot cake jam takes it to another level. And that super soft brioche again the perfect partner.

Choc Mousse – Good as well, but fairly standard and forgettable after the sandwich. I’m still not convinced EVOO, no matter how good, elevates in this case, but I might be in the minority.

We did spend a pretty penny at Penny but we probably ordered two more dishes than needed. Ordering two desserts means a happy Ziggy and wife wanting to try more, but one dessert, and one veggie dish should suffice next time. Since it only took two years to make it, might as well make it count. Nevertheless, prices seem fair. Go!

90 E 10th St

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This is Curaçao

Posted on January 26, 2026 by Ziggy

Curaçao will grow on you. After day one, you’ll wonder if you made a mistake. After the third day, a return turns into a possibility. And after the fifth day, you are shopping for snorkeling gear for the return trip. Not sure how universal this is, but to those of us used to TCI, Anguilla, and other places where spectacular beaches reign supreme, a place like Curaçao needs some time. Its the sum of its parts, and those parts need to be discovered.

One of the major parts, missing from most islands, is the capital, Willemstad. An absolute gem. The architecture and colors were expected, while the random street art, like “Three o’clock romance” for example, not so much. Talking about art, one of the highlights was meeting Giovani at 7.1 Experience Art Gallery. Incredible art work all over the island and Aruba. He just finished a dolphin for a new gas station by the landfill.

There are spectacular beaches alright but all quite busy no matter how far they are. By the time you reach the remote Grote Knip, the island crown jewel, almost an hour from Willemstad, you’ll discover the masses that beat you to it. Cas Abao was another worthwhile schlep, until hungry iguanas chased Mrs Ziggy away. I had no idea she can run this fast. Porto Marie is your destination if mud wrestling with wild black pigs is on your bucket list.

Avila Beach Resort also grew on us. Walking distance to many restaurants and a 20 min walk to town. After 10 minutes the street turns more scenic but the sidewalks in a bad shape. It used to be a rough neighborhood I’m told but now it’s a vibrant food hub. Even with any day trippers the hotel felt fairly quiet for the most part. The beach is not world class but the water is that of a world class beach. Like a bathtub. The water is so clear you can see your pedicure 5 feet in. Problem is everyone else can too.

Curaçao doesn’t have the big long beach like TCI, Aruba, and other islands, but it has many things going for it besides the above. Snorkeling and diving is world class. The weather is much more guaranteed at this time of the year. And hotels and food are cheaper when compared to NYC, TCI, Anguilla, and many more. We paid around $120-$150 for two for a complete more.

This is not a food destination by any means, but we managed to find some gems. Curaçao excels at “New American”, playful, Asian inspired fair, but lack in European. Another issue I noticed before I even got there, is the lack of fresh fish that’s not deep fried. But the tremendous value more than made up for it. And we did have some fantastic tuna and shrimp. More on that later.

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The Ziggys Just Went Bananas in East Village

Posted on January 13, 2026 by Ziggy

Imagine seating in a typical Michelin one star. You order a three courser, including a perfectly cooked short rib with ultra thin mashed potatoes as the star of the meal. The decor is minimal, and the theme is simple quality cooking. One year later, you are desperately trying to remind your spouse of this meal.. “c’mon, remember? we couldnt find parking, and it was raining”. Two years later, you forget the meal yourself.

With a place like Bananas, a one year old in East Village, you wont have this issue. Even without the name and the theme, you have a variety of ways to remember this place, starting with the perky Rachel the waitress and the two owners. Not to mention dishes like the sick Étouffée that we still talked about hours after the meal.

I’m hesitating calling it theme or gimmicky as the name is actually part of the owners story. A slur that eluded me growing up in NYC without any Asian friends. Asian Americans who grew up here were called “Bananas”, yellow on the outside, white on the inside. However there’s much more to the Bananas story. Just about every dish is a chapter.

Not only these proud bananas use bananas successfully in their cooking, the entire place is like an interactive Banana museum. You have a plethora of banana art, and you can even play with bananas between courses. “How do you play with Bananas Ziggy?” Frankly, none of your business, but you just have to go to find out.

The food is playful Asian, new American, with a NOLA twist. Bananas’ young duo has extensive experience in NYC including Michelin. Hence the type of place that normally would garner a lot of buzz, but yet the place is still very much under the radar. Flavors at the very least are that of a Michelin Bib Gourmet level.

The food rundown:

Caramelized Onion Dip – Outstanding, rich, not too oniony dip. Comes with shrimp chips you can eat on their own. I’ll be looking for them at my local Asian supermarket.

Chicken Liver Mousse – Almost didnt order since it comes with pickled scallions. Order it since it comes with pickled scallions! Earning the trust early on.

Étouffée – A signature dish for good reason. Combining shrimp and shrimp wontons in a creole(ish) sauce is genius. Just the right amount of heat, with deep, lasting flavors overall. The dish you talk about hours after the meal.

Shrimp Alfredo – Succulent Udon noodles with large fried shrimp. Nice to have in cold weather, but not as memorable as the others.

Dynamite Fried Rice – Torched table side. Good flavor with the bay scallops and mushrooms, but a little strong with the Masago so may not be for everyone. If you like caviar, chances are you’ll like this.

Char Siu – A cooking masterclass on how to introduce addictive sweetness without sugar. Gorgeously marinated pork comes with caramelized, what else, bananas. Another must order.

Banana Ice Cream – Sprinkles of bacon added salt and crunch but just ok overall. If I can make a suggestion in the small chance the crew is reading. Fried bananas with sticky rice and coconut ice cream. Call it The Ziggy

Bummer they ran out of Octopus as this is another one I really wanted to try. Wash it all down with a Hungarian natural white Harslevelu by Somloi Vandor, even if you are not a fan of natural. Meal of the year!!! 😊

174 1st Ave (10/11)

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French Basque – A Day Inland

Posted on January 5, 2026 by Ziggy

Two months in and it still feels strange classifying some Basque country posts in the France section. Even though it’s undeniably French in language, food and culture, it didnt feel like the same France we know and love. It almost felt like another country, called Basque 😊.

One of the highlights of Pays Basque is the rich collection of picturesque villages spread out in the mountains. It seems like each one of a handful or so villages has found itself on the coveted “Most Beautiful Villages in France” list over the years. You dont have to see all of them, as spending ample time in the ones below will give you a good taste and more. Less is more, remember? Says the person who never learns and tried to see as many villages as possible.

Start with the longest drive of the day, an hour or so from the coast (where you’ll most likely stay. Here’s one suggestion) to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, possibly the the creme de la creme of the Pays villages. Besides having possibly the most dashes in a name (Guinness?), this town has a lot going for it. It is the starting point of one of the most popular Camino routes, and the ending point of other hikes. Its like Disney for hikers if there ever was one.

Like many such gems, the action is centered around one street, between Porte de Saint-Jacques and Porte d’Espagne. If parking by Porte d’Espagne is full, just turn around and park by the lot nearby. Make sure to walk a bit on the main car road, Plāce Chārles de Gāulle for the money shots of the river. You can do the town in less than 90 minutes

Next, a 30 minute or so drive to Espelette, one of the most famous towns in the entire Pays Basque. Even when visiting Biarritz and Saint-Jean-de-Luz (The previous dash record holder), you begin to appreciate Espelette’s fame. You’ll see Espelette stores, postcards, and the famous Espelette pepper products all over the region. The town is famous for its pepper, but even if you take the pepper out of the equation, it’s still very pleasant.

Time for lunch. This is the one area were I suggest Michelin. You will be hard pressed to find this kind of value in large cities in France or anywhere. Choko Ona in Espelette is the way to go. Not exactly a national secret however as the place most likely will be full, so highly recommend to reserve.

Take an after lunch stroll in beautiful Espelette and then head to Villa Arnaga, or House-museum of Edmond Rostand as its shown on Google. The villa is the perfect size for an attraction that compliments the rest of the day’s itinerary. Not too crowded, tastefully manicured garden, and uniquely furnished home.

This is not one of those marathon posts. Take it easy here, and learn from my mistake. We wanted to see one more village so we zigzagged through the mountains to Ainhoa. But what we found was a very sleepy village that was quite forgettable after the others. Take your time with the others, have a nice long lunch, see the Villa and call it a day. A memorable one.

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Theodora – A Hanukkah Miracle in Fort Greene

Posted on December 26, 2025 by Ziggy

After two years of trying to get the hottest table in Brooklyn, it finally happened. Snatched two Chef Counter spots the day prior. Did I try very hard? Not really. If you look at Theodora reservations at any given time, you wont see any. I cant even commit to what I’ll watch on Netflix tonight, not alone where I’ll eat with how many people a month from now. Not to mention its NYC. Plenty of exciting options, old and new, that require much less effort.

Chef Counter seats are always a gamble as you never quite know what you going to get. A relaxed environment with a chatty chef, or “The Bear” like chaos. Here its somewhere in the middle. Organized chaos, led by the screamer, a fellow, with opera experience no doubt, that yells the orders standing right next to me. After the initial shock to the system of “FIRE.. CABBAGE… ALL DAY!!!!”, we quickly got used to it. Though when you start yelling fire near an actual fire, other thoughts come to mind.

And since I’m ranting, is it time perhaps to retire the long awkward, “Have you been here before? Well, our dishes are meant for sharing. Its best to order 4-10 dishes because our margins are very thin and the opera singer didnt come cheap“. Oh! Good to know. I was about to order the cabbage dish all for myself. In this day and age its like asking if we have been out in the past 15 years. Its as useful as a hotel booking site listing a Flat Screen TV in the hotel room. When was the last time you saw a TV that wasnt flat.

Theodora is the latest from the team behind Mis Ada nearby. The focus is on fish, aged fish, but we were drooling inches away from the chicken dishes that they kept dishing out. It’s one of those menus that I want to try every single item, given the chance. Even though it wasnt exactly a slam dunk meal, and kinda pricy, I recommend trying at least once.

The food breakdown:

Hiramasa – The most hyped Crudo on the menu was surprisingly just ok for us. They age all or almost all their fish, but here the 4 delicate cuts get lost in the shuffle of sauces and avocado (hiding underneath). Good flavors but mostly not from the fish. Perhaps in other places, this would have been more of a highlight.

Wood-Fired Cabbage – Ugly delicious. Smoky, but could have used more. Elevate by the Calabrian Chili Butter. Happy I was allowed to share this with her since it was her favorite dish.

Sourdough – With Whipped Ricotta, Brown Butter, Honey, Sage. Another hyped dish but this time for good reason. Light and absolutely delicious. Seems easy to make, but would be hard to find quality Sourdough and Ricotta such as this. Though you can buy the bread two doors down at their bakery Thea.

Striped Sea Bass – Another great dish. Perfectly cooked bass in a superb broth with saffron, with mussels and charred sunchokes adding much needed texture.

Whole Butterflied Trout – Mexico City style, Harissa on one side, and Chermoula (The North African Chimichurri) on the other. The sauces were very mild which was a good thing. Much of the richness came from the Pil Pil sauce at the base. Very good overall, but a very large dish without any sides. Maybe some rice, or even pita bread would be nice. Or at least serve the cabbage dish with it if ordered.

Baklava Sundae – Regrettable choice. I should really start bringing my own Lebanese Halva and Silan to these outings. Should have gone with the cheesecake as originally planned.

The drinks were good. They use spices including pepper in many of them. I liked the smoky Mayahuel martini.

Happy Holidays everyone!

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Martín Berasategui – Culinary Royalty Killing it

Posted on December 16, 2025 by Ziggy

A serial food researcher’s job is to pick the restaurants, and figure out what the restaurant is good at. Pretty simple stuff. But sometimes, you come across places where more research is needed. Like, where to sit, what to drink, whether I can throw napkins on the floor (like in a Basque pintxo bar), and in this case, how to pose with the chef for selfies.

At Martín Berasategui’s flagship near San Sebastian, when Mr Berasategui comes out of the kitchen to chat and take pictures, you dont just smile and say cheese. You raise your fist like you mean it, and scream GARROTE!!! Otherwise, you will confirm kitchen rumors of the clueless American at table 4, and no dessert for you! The meaning of Garrote, you can find out later.

Before Berasategui adapted the term and made it his trademark, Garrote was just a word used by torture chamber enthusiasts. His father tragically died when Martin was 11, leaving the family restaurant to the mom and kids to manage. And not too long after, Berasategui started rallying the family troops with “GARROTE” to express grit and fighting spirit. Like, “lets kill this thing”. The word became his signature, and the new meaning added to the Spanish Royal Academy Historical Dictionary as a result.

You get the sense that you are not in Kansas anymore as you soon as you walk inside this legendary establishment. It’s like checking into a 5 star hotel, or a fancy spa. This is far from your typical Michelin experience, even for three Michelin star standards. For someone like me who is used to Michelin dining but not so much three star, its a YOLO moment.

Included in the €395 price is the kind of flexibility you can only find in a three star. You have your fixed menu, and an a la carte menu, and you essentially can manufacture your own tasting from the two sides. The super friendly waiters, straight out of Pluribus (if you havent watched yet, what are you waiting for) are there to help you with any changes you wish.

I’m not going to describe each of the 15 or so courses, not counting three different bread courses (fenugreek bread!). You are not paying me enough! But just about each course was a religious experience. The combination of flavors, textures, aromas, various temperatures, not to mention the artistic element was unlike anything we ever had. All kinds of food magic like a Gilda in a liquid form on a spoon, the Olive that was anything but, the smoked tuna belly on a celery, mint, and Bergamot “cloud”. Sensational complex flavors to boot.

The Hake and lobster dishes were particular standouts from the larger dishes. By that point each plate had so many ingredients, I was happy there was no test at the end. Trying the main ingredients like the grilled Galician Sirloin by themselves was one thing, but combining everything else together was like Mardi Gras in your mouth. And no matter how much you add to the spoon, nothing overwhelms the main ingredient.

The only complaint I can imagine and even witnessed with this menu is that its a bit too much of a good thing. I noticed some patrons asking the staff how many more courses, followed by “ok, we are getting quite full”. If you are able to pick all the chocolates from the chocolate tree on the last course, you should get a prize. Maybe thats what he means by “Garrote”… kill, kill kill. But not sure what they can do to fix this other than a two hour nap break in the middle. In this facility it felt like they can pull it off.

One of the highlights was getting a tour of the kitchen at the end. I was expecting a very large, maybe 20 or so person kitchen, and what we saw was essentially around 50 chef factory. 50 chefs for 40 seats. By the end that €395 felt like a decent deal. An unforgettable experience and probably the best meal we ever had.

You can build your appetite, or kill some of the calories at Chillida-Leku, 5 minutes away. An open air museum featuring the work of Basque Country sculptor Eduardo Chillida. He did the Comb of the Wind in San Sebastian, and the stunning Elogio del horizonte in Gijon (Asturias)

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24 Hours in Rioja

Posted on December 7, 2025 by Ziggy

Wine, Pintxos, Sleep, Rinse, Repeat. That’s pretty much the gist of this post and what 24 hours in Rioja may entail. Well, there was also plenty of architecture, old towns, cats, and pretty cool art. But all roads in Rioja lead to more wine, more Pintxos, and since the area hasnt been discovered like the neighbors to the north, all still quite cheap.

Since you’ll be saving on all that glorious food and wine, might as well splurge with Palacio de Samaniego, located in the village of, you guessed it, Samaniego. A restored 17th centaury palace consisting of 9 luxury suites, opened a few years ago by the Rothschild family. The personal project of Edmond de Rothschild Group CEO Ariane de Rothschild, adding her personal touch and private collection, particularly the vases. The entire place including your room looks like a museum.

Breakfast at the Palacio is superb, but dinner was a bit less so. Tierra y Vino is locally well regarded, praised by Macarfi, Michelin and more. Perhaps a series of sensational meals in French Basque and San Sebastian were a tough act to follow. Still, it gets great reviews, and your experience may differ. The beef cheeks and duck were the saving grace.

An alternative in the area would be to eat in the village of Ábalos, or at the popular meat temple SVGAR in Laguardia. All within 10 minute drive. You can also have a lighter meal at the Palacio after a bigger lunch elsewhere. During our meal, waiters were carrying some nifty looking burgers to the patrons sitting in the lobby.

Baigorri

Moving on to the area wineries. You are essentially within a short drive of some of the most impressive wineries in Europe. My advice is to see the grand and famous, but taste the small and personable. You got one of each within walking distance of the Palacio. You can pop inside Bodegas Baigorri for a quick peek or a tour. Followed by a tasting at Bodegas Ostatu across. Try the white Gran Reserva and red Gloria.

For lunch I recommend a pintxos crawl in Logroño, Rioja’s bustling capital. This is the cultural and historic jewel of the region, especially for food lovers. Once you discover the action on Calle Laurel, the epicenter of the old town, you’ll plan to come back on the way to the car for more, only to discover that it just go busier. Meaning, come as early as you can. The bonus is that after San Sebastián or Bilbao, this will be a major relief on the wallet. Here are some of the highlights for your crawl.

Bar Soriano – Start with the legend that makes one item. Grilled Cremini mushroom tower with shrimp on top and bread. Sounds kinda meh but its so satisfyingly garlicky and buttery. Even chief mushroom hater Mrs Z liked it. Places all over town trying to mimic this but you’ll want to try it here.

Bar Lorenzo “Agus Tio” – Next to Soriano you got very tasty Bocadillos, mini pork skewer sandwiches that come nicely sauced. Light and delicious.

Torres Gastrobar – For the finish, Kobe Beef cutlets with fries and green peppers. Supremely flavorful, and popular for a reason. I actually came for the squid sandwiches (solid as well), but got distracted when these cutlets were parading all over.

Its wine o’clock again, and time to finish our wine tour with two obligatory stops. Bodegas Ysios and Marqués de Riscal, in that order if you pressed for time. Ysios is an absolute stunner, maybe the most beautiful winery I’ve seen, and the building is quite accessible for your all important selfie. But you need an appointment to get inside. Marqués de Riscal isnt as accessible without booking a tour

Spend the next morning in another atmospheric old town, LaGuardia. Though dont come too early, as the town just begins to wake up at around 11. One unexpected aspect was the art, including the tree art outside the walls, and Sara Luna’s window art displayed on several shops. Along with Logroño, this is reason enough to come to Rioja.

The order here obviously depends on your schedule. Be mindful of opening/closing times of the wineries. Another winery I planned on visiting but had to cancel days prior is Bodegas Tritium for their 15th-century caves.

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Papa San – Severely Underrated Nikkei

Posted on December 2, 2025 by Ziggy

Not often a restaurant opens by a celebrated chef or group flies under the radar in NYC. Seeing a mostly empty room on a Sunday night was very strange considering this is the latest from Juan Correa and chef Erik Ramirez off the Llama Inn and Llama San fame (granted closed and closing). And especially considering how strong this meal was.

The location has much to do with it. Many see Hudson Yards as up and coming but to me its up and going, especially when it comes to unfamiliar flavors. Momofuku’s Kawi was the most interesting place to ever open in HY, only to close two years later. David Chang revamping his empire had something to do with it, but still. Business lunches and tourists in the area generally opt for something simple like Zou Zou’s (Mediterranean) or Ci Siamo (Italian). Most visitors probably never even heard of Nikkei (Japanese Peruvian).

With that said, Papa San might be the best offering by the Llama Group, and has the potential to become a destination place. A Hannukah miracle if you will, or a destination place is the only hope because “how about Hudson Yards” literally said no one when it comes to choosing a night out in NYC. Its usually the villages and surrounding areas, if not Hell’s Kitchen. Although technically, according to Google Maps at least, Papa San is just inside Hell’s Kitchen.

The food rundown. We mostly ordered from the “Small Plates” section of the menu as that looks like their strength.

Mussels – Almost didn’t order this because it was, well, mussels. Some of the best in years if not decades. Plump, gorgeous mussels in one of those addictive curry sauces with sweet heat from the Aji Amarillo (Peruvian yellow peppers). And comes with a surprise, perfect McDonald’s fries to dip in that sick sauce.  

Miso Black Cod – The weakest link is more of a testament to the other dishes. Expertly cooked, delicate Cod on Nori flavored Polenta. Subtle flavors, and while satisfying, forgettable compared to the explosive flavors of the rest. Still I’d order this again. 

Eel Pizza – Salty, sweet, nicely balanced with the eel, shitake, pecorino, dancing bonito flakes and tangy sauce.  Probably the most hyped dish here, and rightfully so, except that other dishes were equally as good if not better.

Wagyu Tri Tip – Exactly what you expect from a place like this.  Perfectly cooked, thinly sliced with a very complimentary Yuzu Bearnaise.

Udon Noodles – Another signature, marketed as a play on Cacio e Pepe. This was just sensational. Complex, deep flavors with sautéed squid adding nice texture.  If you like the chew on sautéed squid from say Blue Ribbon Sushi, you’d like this.  

Tsukemodo Cucumbers side – refreshing bites to cut all that richness.   

Creative drinks, friendly staff, nothing but smiles from the open kitchen (not sure if thats still the case when they are busy). The space is attractive, and the menu fairly priced for Manhattan.  Good option this month to pair with the holiday lights at Hudson Yards.

501 W 34th St.

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Les Frères Ibarboure {Bidart} – Sum of All Parts

Posted on November 28, 2025 by Ziggy

How often do you get a chance to stay at a tranquil, 5 acres, 13 room, modern boutique hotel, with lush gardens, remote feel yet short driving distance to civilization, for around $250 a night. Oh and did I mention a Michelin Star restaurant on site, considered by many the place to beat in Pays Basque. Possibly our most memorable stay ever in France.

This gem is technically in Bidart but closer to Guéthary or Getaria in Basque. Not to confuse with Spain’s Getaria, home of the famous Turbot. Located in the middle of the forest, but smack in the middle of French Basque between Biarritz, Bayonne and Saint-Jean-de-Luz. Not to mention easy access to the two said villages and local restaurants like the outstanding Ezkia.

This is the product of third generation Ibarboure brothers. Xabi takes care of the savory side, and Patrice, a Daniel alum, handles the sweet side. The award winning cookie waiting for us on arrival was a preview of things to come. Between munching on cookies, the heated pool, gardens, and restaurant, you may not want to leave the property. The always helpful full staff makes it easy. Is this starting to sound like an ad? Good. Any day now I should get my first check from any of the hundreds of places featured here.

There’s something about putting on my dressy Costco pants, brushing whatever hair I’m grateful to still have, and walking about a hundred feet to the restaurant, passing by the garden, the source for much of the menu. The walk back through a secret backdoor is even shorter, and much appreciated with this wine menu.

I’m not going to go over every one of the courses. But an epic meal to say the least featuring all sorts of flavors, textures and surprises in classic Michelin style. Like Zucchini flowers filled with langoustine custard with tempura’d langoustine lollipops. A 41 y/o classic dating from the brother’s dad. The seasonal salad course as expected, absolutely divine. Same for the sensational beef.

Foams and sauces made from the vegetables and herbs grown in the garden featured throughout. The desserts were possibly the best part of the meal. Mrs Z proclaimed the chocolate dessert after enough vino, “best chocolate thingy I ever had”. We usually share everything, but she got all weird in this case. But I was extremely satisfied with my fig creation.

The atmosphere was typical of a remote hotel Michelin restaurant. Not many patrons which means you receive a lot of attention, but with the kind of professionalism that keeps you comfortable. The same great attention to detail you expect from such establishments. And we got lucky with one of those fun waitresses who laughed at all my bad dad jokes. This entire hotel/dining experience is a classic example of sum of all parts greater than whole. I recommend a minimum of three nights.

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San Sebastian – Random Tips

Posted on November 21, 2025 by Ziggy

This will be short, sweet and possibly or probably controversial.

Stay in Gros. This is not one of those situations where you are staying far from the action and need to travel to the center via a long boring walk or public transportation. Its an attractive, happening, residential area with plenty of interesting food options like Artean and a plethora of Pintxo bars. And the walk to the center via any of the bridges is pretty cool.

See the Sunset and surfers from Sagues. Another reason to stay in Gros or at least visit. This is where the young, the restless, and good looking people hang out, so we naturally blended in ;). Its a long promenade with a low wall for sitting and people watching, if not the glorious sunset.

Follow the path of local artist Eduardo Chillida, starting with the dramatic Haizearen Orrazia (Comb of the Wind), and the open-air museum, Chillida-Leku located outside the city. His masterpiece in Gijon (Elogio del horizonte) in Asturias worth checking out as well if you are travelling that way. You may even bump into Chillida’s grandson in Chillida-Leku.

As for food, too many to mention and I will continue writing about the highlights. Spoiler alert: Martin Berasategui worth the splurge, and Ganbara worth the wait. But its really hard these days to have a proper Pintxo crawl when you need to stand on ling lines, and due to the vastness and deliciousness of some of the menus.

Worth mentioning, if you are the “Eat to live” kind as some of my friends, as opposed to “Live to eat”, San Sebastian isnt really for you IMO. There’s really not a whole lot to do and see there.

Other day trips: Turbot village Getaria and the Flysch cliffs of Zumaia can be a very nice day. You can have an amazing lunch in Getaria at Elkano, any of its sisters, or Mayflower. Or do what we did this time, a Sea Bream feast at the legendary Xixario.

I wasnt sure whether to post the following, but I think its important to mention. Read it as an observation since this is really the intended purpose. It might be good news, or not, depending on where you stand on the issue.

In Basque country cities and villages these days, you cant really walk far without seeing a Palestinian flag, and in San Sebastian’s old town you cant walk two feet without seeing one. They are hanging from just about every poll, window, and even churches and municipality buildings. After some time, it just becomes part of the scene, but its quite prevalent at first. Even in small villages in Rioja you may see one waved in the main square. I have some ideas on the reasons, but I wont get into it here.

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