An Unconventional Day in Pisac

Posted on November 6, 2026 by Ziggy

A lot of visitors ask me if after seeing Machu Picchu, Sexy Woman (Sacsayhuaman), and the Sacred Valley ruins, is a Pisac day trip from Cusco still a must. Ok, no one really asked me that except the voices in my head on pretty much a daily basis leading to the trip. But I’m sure many want to know the answer. The answer is most definitely, without question, yes. But I would do this a little differently than the conventional way of just Pisac and the Market.

First, get a guide for at least the portion leading to lunch time. I recommend David from Cachi Life who will pick you up with a driver (very handy). David is a wealth of information, easy to communicate, knows English very well, and just a pleasant guy to be around. This is a good time to also remind you that I dont do affiliated links here and I’m not an influencer. I’m just an average traveler like you who recommends the things I like.

On the way to Pisac, spend some time at Cochahuasi Animal Sanctuary. This was such a pleasant surprise. Its a non-profit that rescues animals like bears, pumas, Llamas, alpacas, condors and a variety of exotic birds. But the cool part is that they have a funny, enthusiastic guide that will walk with you and introduce you to the animals and their stories. This place is an absolute gem.

Pisac Archeological Park is about 30 minutes from the sanctuary and an hour from Cusco. That part of the country is just like NYC where 15 miles can take more than an hour. I’m told there are modern highways somewhere in Peru but we didnt see any. This is one of the many reasons not to cram too much into the itinerary. All these tours that include the Sacred Valley sites, Ollantaytambo and Pisac in one day seem crazy to me. It took us three days to see those sites.

Once you reach the archeological park, it doesnt take long for the jaw to start dropping. Not only you will be able to explore the entire estate and see the terraces, but there are also plenty of surprises like the cliffside tombs across the gorge. But what sets Pisac apart is the views of the massive terraces and the valley. And the stories David told us like that of the runners that ran for miles every day to send messages to the architect living on a hill, added to the experience.

Some hike all the way down to Pisac town that takes about 2 hours, but for this itinerary we head back to the car and drive down. The town and the famous Pisac market were attractive and colorful, but not as vibrant as I expected. It was fairly sleepy but at that moment after exploring the park I didnt it mind so much. It’s a nice stroll that you can make as long or short as you want.

The conventional itinerary calls for lunch at the market or somewhere else in Pisac, which is fine. But I figured, since I’m already out of Cusco proper in the country side, lets see if there’s something more interesting like a farm in the area that allows visitors. Enter Hacienda Sarapampa.

Simply put, this Hacienda fits this itinerary like the old shoe with a hole in it that you wont throw out until you cant wear it anymore or your wife throws it behind your back. Why do we allow them to do that?!? Anywho, Hacienda Sarapampa feels like an oasis. You can book various activities, all involve food. We did the 4 course meal, and stayed long enough to see a horse and dance show.

You start your experience with a short tour of the property where you discover that they are the supplier of Giant Peruvian Inca Corn to Trader Joe’s. I’ve shopped at TJ’s countless of times and never saw this product until the other day where I was looking for it. I didnt open it yet.

The meal at Hacienda Sarapampa was quite good. Everything from the soup, salad, and beef showcased products they grow and everything was cooked with care and expertise. A true Farm to Table. The only issue was that they were served a bit too quickly and we were done within an hour. That also created some confusion on how long this experience lasts as we needed transportation back to Cusco. The Hacienda is still fairly new to tourism so some kinks still need to be ironed.

You can plan the return to Cusco with the reliable Taxidatum. However you plan the day, Pisac will be one of the more memorable days in Peru. It is one of the reasons a stay of four day minimum is required for Cusco. Not including the Machu Picchu day.

Categories: Peru | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Three Lesser Known Gems in Lima

Posted on October 31, 2026 by Ziggy

Unless you’ve been living under a rock, or Staten Island, you know by now that Lima, Peru is one of the best food cities in the world. I already discussed La Mar and I will write a post on Merito (spoiler alert: Its good) at some point. We had surprisingly one less than stellar meal at Alegría Picantería Piurana, and three excellent meals at spots you normally dont see on the “Best of Lists”.

Tomo Cocina Nikkei

I spent a fair amount of time trying to pick the right Nikkei and I was satisfied with Tomo. Was it flawless? Not exactly. But its strengths are enough to come back, especially now that I know what to order. Both founding chefs worked at Maido, number one currently on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. We sat at the quiet airy terrace that didnt have a whole lot of ambiance during this midweek lunch. Better ambiance at the bar downstairs, but you sacrifice light and vitamin D.

As in other places, the Tiradito (More like Crudo, not Ceviche) hasnt won us over. It featured that day’s catch, Flounder, that wasnt very flavorful and wasnt saved by the sauce. The Nigiris on the other hand were superb. Highlights were the tuna belly, and their specialty Baci – Scallop, Loche squash butter, and Ebi Volcán (like a mildly spicy chopped shrimp salad), torched table side. Essentially Nikkei in a nutshell. The Bay Scallops (top picture) were standouts as well.

Quipas

A hidden jewel in plain sight in the heart of Miraflores, opened two years ago by a former Mayta sous chef. One of those places that as a tourist, you either need to quit your job to spend all your time researching, or know someone to find it. Chances are, like us, you’ll be the only tourist in the room. Unless of course Quipas fame finally catches up with it by the time you read this.

One of the signatures is a dish simply called Scallops and Asparagus, but there’s nothing simple about it. Silky smooth Scallops from the north with finely diced Asparagus, a cream of more asparagus, herbs, lime and other goodies, all covering a bean puree. As just about every such dish in Peru, eaten with a spoon as intended.

There was also a nice baby octopus that looked like a pretty healthy baby to me. Good Empanadas, and decent corn and cheese that was honestly pedestrian when compared to other corn and cheese dishes we had in Peru. After watching it paraded all over the room, I regretted not getting the Duck Rice. The dessert was another triumph. A stuffed cherimoya, “the most delicious fruit known to men” according to Mark Twain. Its stuffed with Chirimoya Pulp, mandarin, and some sort of crumbly biscuit for crunch. Light and not too sweet.

Cosme

Remember, I said “lesser”. Cosme is gaining popularity by the day and may even crack the world’s top 50 on November 4th (ceremony in Lima). It already jumped to #9 on the Latin America’s 50 Best. But its still not featured on most Lima lists hence not on the tourist radar. One of the coolest things here is Cosme’s funky decor with over 5000 plastic bottles hanging from the ceiling about to fall on you or worse the food, any minute.

The food was simply glorious. There was a fine Octopus with Quinoa pesto. Expertly seared tuna tataki with Ají Amarillo sauce. A decadent rice and shrimp. And Beef cheek, that wasn’t super tender but had nice deep flavors. And then the main event that needs 20 minutes to prepare. A chocolate lava cake with Lucuma playing the lava part, a celebrated local fruit. Peruvian tubers and fruits are next level

Categories: Peru | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Virginia is for Foodies

Posted on October 24, 2026 by Ziggy

Although I dont have a Virginia category on this blog, I feel this is one foodie and nature destination New Yorkers should pay more attention. Even though some of the sites are as close to us as the Finger Lakes, Virginia still feels worlds away. But not many realize that its home to our closets National Park, Shenandoah. While not as jaw-dropping as Acadia, and most National Parks out there frankly, it’s something. When it comes to nature near NYC beggars cant be choosers.

I first visited the Northern Virginia area around 5 years ago. I came to visit Shenandoah as part of a long road trip, and in addition I discovered Tuscan like rolling hills and a plethora of wineries. I’ve never seen any on any menu, but Virginia boasts over 300 wineries, many of which offer the kind of settings that make any wine taste better. This time we visited some of them and then some…

Day 1

Nick’s Fish House (Baltimore) – Not in Virginia, but daddy needs to refuel. This is our usual stop on the way down (or up). We usually order the famous Maryland crab, but this time we settled on soups, crab cakes, shrimp and for the first time their crab filled Pretzel. Other than the Pretzel which wasnt an upgrade over a fine regular pretzel like Werkstatt’s in Brooklyn, I would gladly order everything again. Cream of crab for her, Maryland style Gumbo for me. Perfectly blackened Shrimp. And these crab cakes will make every other crab cake in NYC and elsewhere taste pedestrian.

Great Falls Park – First stop in Virginia is Iguazu de Virginia. No multi-mile hike is necessary to see the great falls. Like a stroll (an expensive one ) in a park with your loved one. By the way in case you didnt know “Virginia is For Lovers” is the state slogan, hence the title. These are some of the best falls in relation to ease of seeing them that I’ve seen in the US.

Stone Tower Winery – This is a very popular place and that popularity prevented us from trying the wine. In addition to a wedding, just super busy understandably on a Saturday afternoon. Still, I can see why this is a popular wedding venue

Hillsborough Vineyards & Brewery – Thats more like it. Still busy, but a lot more intimate family owned winery. Striking views throughout, and a cool market on this Saturday (maybe every Saturday?). The wine was as good as I expected from a Virginia winery. One of three whites was decent, and the reds faired better overall.

Loudoun Valley Manor – Our accommodations for this night. Just a very pleasant country side bed and breakfast with the owner Olga dishing out killer omelets. Just 12 minutes from Leesburg.

The Wine Kitchen (Leesburg) – One of the more acclaimed restaurants in Leesburg. Good drinks, service, and good enough food. Mushrooms dominate the menu at this time of the year. From simple sauteed mushrooms to Mafaldine with Mushroom that was too similar profile to the app. The undisputed winner was the Rigatoni Bolognese.

Day 2

Leesburg – Virginia has no shortage of small historic towns with attractive centers, and Leesburg is one of them. Lively enough for an evening or morning stroll. Dont miss Morven Park, around 6 minute drive from the center. Sprowling grounds that include a mansion and a garden that’s totally free to the public. Maybe this “Virginia is for Lovers” thing has something to it.

Spelunker’s (Front Royal) – A nice 90 minute drive to Front Royal, at the foot of Shenandoah. Where are all the people? Oh, at Spelunker’s looks like. Its one of those rare old school burger joints that hasnt lost a beat since it opened in 2002. We’ve been here before and the burger is still the same old juicy beefy goodness. Just a little busy on a Sunday 1pm. A more intimate burger option is Blue’s Dog Bowl truck in Luray, the next destination…

Luray Caverns – In Shenandoah country the stuff you find under ground is just as impressive as above. Holy moly this was something else, and so totally unexpected. A 40 minute walk showcasing all sorts of shapes, colors, and upside down and right side up cathedrals, some of which reflect from bodies of water you didnt know are there. This is an absolute must.

Glen Gordon Manor – A repeat stay at this food focused boutique hotel where the owner is the chef. The first time was one of our favorite stays anywhere in the US, while the second one felt more like coming home. Its a decent size property but only a few rooms in a few scattered buildings. Its so serene that you literally dont hear anything but your stomach growling in anticipation for their three course breakfasts and five course dinners.

The Blue Door – Talking about musts, this is the one dining destination in the area you should absolutely consider. Its a mom and pop that is also an inn. Pop the chef is from north Italy (very north). Mom effortlessly runs the front. Other than the octopus which was deskinned (just a personal pref), I’d gladly order everything again. The Halibut and the superb shrimp pasta especially.

Day 3

Shenandoah National Park – It’s tough to time the fall foliage, as we got much luckier the first time around, but the park is pretty at any time of the year. The Skyline drive is one of the most beautiful drives on the east coast. And while not exactly world class, the hikes are pleasant enough. Dont miss the Dark Hollow Falls. On the way to the park, stop for apples (or other seasonal items) and Jams at any of the numerous stands.

Dinner at Glen Gordon Manor – I already touched on breakfast which will be different every morning, but the 5 course dinner is the real deal. While not exactly a value play, the expertise and passion of the chef/owner is showing throughout. And the wine offerings especially from Willamette Valley is a nice touch.

On the way back to NYC this time we stopped at the charming Hillwood Estate, Museum & Gardens in Washington. And a Philly Cheesesteak at old fave John’s Roast Pork in Philly, but only because Angelo’s Pizzeria was closed.

Categories: Virginia | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

Efimero – Cusco’s Best Kept Secret

Posted on October 14, 2026 by Ziggy

It will be interesting to see the the next Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants, coming out on December 1. I’ve never paid much attention to this list before. In fact, I didnt even know it exists as a separate list from the World’s Top 50. But now that I started exploring South America (better late than never), I’m all too familiar. Lists as such can seem random and sometimes nonsensical (except mine of course), but they can also be a good source before the vetting process.

If Efimero is omitted from the list, it would be both shocking and not totally surprising at the same time. Its not only in Cusco, not Lima, but its literally and figuratively a hidden gem. Most locals we spoke to never heard of it. And while close to the main square, its tucked inside a courtyard you can easily miss. As of early September, you could still get in without reservations on most nights. But after getting a taste of some of the places on the list, Efimero absolutely deserves a spot.

Efimero is keeping a low profile. Or maybe in Peru, outside of Cusco you dont have much of a choice without a thriving influencer scene. I also found a similar story in Ollantaytambo, except that one was hidden in plain sight, and still empty. You wont find Efimero on most if not any Best of Cusco lists, unless you dig deeper for this rare archeological find. Instead of another piece of pottery, its a rare coin.

When you first see Christian Navarrete Véliz, you wonder if they have a bring your kids to work days in Peru restaurants. The dude is 28 but looks closer to 15. And at 28 he already established quite a resume. Mirazur in France, Spain’s Mugaritz, Central in Lima, among other notables. Efimero is his first baby opened about a year ago. I never know what to expect from places like this. Could be great, or an experiment gone horribly wrong. But the end result was somewhere between Michelin one and two star quality with Bib Gourmet prices.

Its a small concentrated menu where every dish is about the same size. Five dishes including dessert was plenty for us. Its one of those cases where pictures dont really tell you much except for the plating style. The main ingredient is often buried entirely, and we’ve seen that in other restaurants in Peru. Maybe the element of surprise is more important here than Instagram.

After much deliberation we settled on Octopus, Tempura, Lamb, Antitucho and Banana dessert as they are named on the menu. Every single dish was stellar. Just the perfect balance, distinct flavors and textures, and smart use of sauces and foams. The Octopus especially was a triumph, topped with Lisa, one of roughly 4000 native Tubers. Its one of Christian’s favorite dishes, along with the Tempura, another masterpiece.

The expertly cooked Antitucho was beef in this case, not beef heart which is more traditional. The Lamb was more like a glorious stew you eat with a spoon. And the banana dessert was just the perfect finish for this banana everything lover.

A top 5 meal that beat some Lima gems. I spent the rest of my time in Cusco contemplating coming back but at the end we were glad to try some of the rest. One in particular (Oqre) was almost just as good. More on that and the rest of Cusco meals later.

Categories: Peru | Tags: , | Leave a comment

19 Cleveland – Whats in a Name?

Posted on October 9, 2026 by Ziggy

“America has only three cities: New York, San Francisco, and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland” – Tennessee Williams. I’ve never been to Cleveland but I’ll take his word for it. I also doubt Eyal Hen and his partners ever been to Cleveland, otherwise the conversation on how to name this place would be longer. Three visionaries with a naming block (yes there’s such a thing) settling for the address that includes “Cleveland”.

What was wrong with something like “Carmel”, the name partner Asaf Maoz chose for his current restaurant in LA. And what would have happened if they were located on 6 1/2 Avenue, or East 3rd st. The naming possibilities were endless. But I get it. At some point around the time 19 Cleveland opened in 2018, naming it after the neighborhood or street was trendy. The Nomad, Chambers, etc etc.

But other than the name, there’s much to like about 19 Cleveland. After the success of Nish Nush (see, now thats a fun name that rolls off the tongue), the fast casual joint that turned our falafel scene upside down pretty much, a contemporary Middle Eastern/Mediterranean/Israeli was the natural progression. Hen teamed with culinary virtuoso Asaf Maoz to create a menu that’s pretty much for everyone including grandma. Its a rare moment where everything on the menu speaks to me.

But as much as we want to try everything, we keep ordering some of the same items. These days its usually Sunday Brunch which includes plenty of savory stuff you’ll find for dinner, or as they call it, Sunset Menu. I suppose I can also talk about their menu naming conventions. They use a lot of Hebrew like Boker Tov (good morning), Salatim (salads) which is great for Hebrew speaking people like me (its rusty), but can be a little confusing for the rest. But you can feel at home here, regardless if you speak the language.

Courtesy of 19 Cleveland

Ever since an Israeli chef in Flatiron introduced us to Eggplant Carpaccio, we order it everywhere we see it, including here. Though I would prefer a nice warm pita just like what comes out with the Hummus instead of the very hard pita crackers. The smoky eggplant here comes with Feta, Pistachio, Raw Tahini & Pomegranate. Essentially Hava Nagila in your mouth. The wedding version.

The creamy silky smooth Hummus is another must on every visit. This was the first time we tried one topped with Garlic & Tomato. While good, I’m not sure I prefer over the Hummus Masabacha here. Still I think the best Hummus can be found at Gazala’s in UWS, but this is pretty darn good.

Another thing we usually order is the Short Rib Burekas. It got the flavors and texture but not quite big enough and not meant to share between four people. The Chicken Shawarma is a step above the average. The Branzino Shawarma is fine as well, but we prefer the chicken. I indulge in the spicy Falafel Sandwich or Safta’s Chicken Schnitzel when I feel naughty. The Shakshuka hasnt totally won me over, but the family likes it.

Friendly service, fine drinks, comfortable whether you are in the cozy back or the more buzzy bright front. And very easy to reserve. One of the only places in the city where we feel at home as a family. And as long as they dont use the Staten Island naming convention (Hummus R Us), I dont really care what they call it.

19 Cleveland
19 Cleveland Pl (Nolita)
Recommended Dishes: Eggplant Carpaccio, Hummus Masabacha, Short Rib Burekas, Chicken Shawarma

Categories: New York City, SoHo, NoHo, Nolita | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

10 Tips for Machu Picchu

Posted on October 5, 2026 by Ziggy

Planning a trip to Machu Picchu? You came to the wrong place. Unless you are holding a baby, you have to drop what you are doing and get those MP tickets, before its too late. But since you already here, might as well check out these tips. I can almost guarantee that some of these will be new, even after extensive research.

Its actually Machu PEEK-choo

Raise your hand if you knew that. I met people that have been to MP and even took a tour and didnt know this. Now here’s why it matters. MAH-choo PEEK-choo means old mountain in Quechuan, the local dialect. While MAH-choo PEE-choo means old…. Penis! One theory is that locals dont correct visitors because they need to entertain themselves somehow. But its probably most likely the name got anglicized over the years

Buy MP tickets well in advance

This may be obvious, but you will be surprised how many travelers are not aware of this, and scramble at the last minute. This is pretty much the first thing you need to do after getting your flights. At least three months in advance. You will need your passport numbers when booking as with many of the purchases including some restaurants according to Peru law. You will also need to choose a “Circuit”. 2-a and 2-b are widely considered the best.

Prepare for a train sticker shock

You may have heard how cheap Perus is. And for the most part its a whole lot cheaper than US and much of Europe. Except when it comes to the train to Machu Picchu which will make Swiss trains cheap. Its essentially a duopoly that operates like a monopoly. Both companies offer pretty much the same prices which can easily top $200 for a round trip per person. We paid around $300 for the two of us

The train upgrades arent worth it

While researching you will see a variety of opinions on this so I will just add another one. Book whatever times convenient to you, and dont stress on the type of train. The difference between the basic and the upgraded trains like 360 and Vistadome dont merit paying the extra $$$ IMO. We did both on the Inca Rail and the difference was too marginal to impact the enjoyment level much. It also doesnt matter which side you sit, as frankly in the grand scheme of things of stunning Peru, the views were not as impressive as advertised.

Stay in Ollantaytambo

Its weird that most MP visitors stay in Cusco, and dont at the very least split their stay. Ollantaytambo is not only a lot closer, but you will need to go through it anyway. Its an actual living Inca city, and you will get a better understanding of MP after seeing the Olla sites first. But the most important reason is that its 2000 feet lower than Cusco, and that should help you with the acclamation.

No absolute need to buy bus tickets well in advance

You will see this advice often, but mainly from people who never arrived without bus tickets. You will most likely save a whopping 5-10 minutes if you buy bus tickets online. This is one area they made very efficient. Just go to the Consettur Bus Ticket office located on Avenida Hermanos Ayar (where the line is), and immediately go to the machine to take a ticket like a confident pro, and wait for your number to be called. One issue with getting all the tickets in advance is that you lose it all if the weather doesnt cooperate or you dont show up for another reason.

Stand on the right line

This is one thing we werent aware of and lost some time as a result. We were hardly the only ones. The long line you will see for the bus may not be for you if you arrive too early or even on time. The front of the line will usually have a sign that will indicate the timed line which we missed. At around 9 am, the long line can still be for the 9 am ticket holders while the 10 am is slowly forming by the wall. PS, good coffee at La Rivera Coffee Center on the same street

No need to prearrange with a guide

On the bus line there will be plenty of guides offering their services. The guides usually live in Cusco, and stay in Aguas Calientes for days if not weeks, leaving their families behind. You already spent $$$$ by this point just to get here, and supporting local guides will be small pocket change in comparison. But there’s no need to look for a guide on the internet as I did. Not only you will pay more but the recommendations are just like restaurants and hotels, subjective and cant really be compared to any other guide. Another tip is to make friends on the train or bus line and share the cost of the guide.

Read the fine print

Machu Picchu officials are a little finicky about what tourists are allowed to bring to the citadel. No umbrellas, high heels, baby strollers, tripods, selfie sticks (YES!!!), large backpacks, and even certain walking sticks like trekking poles with metal tips. All of which can harm the historic stones or other people. We were stopped because someone in our group had a portable chair she used as a walking stick. After a lot of begging the guard finally let us in.

Eat at Indio Feliz

Dont short change Aguas Calientes. Its a actually an attractive town with a population of 5000. It felt a little more local than I imagined after exploring much of the town. And boy did I pick the right place for lunch. Indio Feliz is not exactly a secret once you go up and discover entire group tours hiding in various floors above you. Its one of those places that look like a museum, with better than decent food. Try the Mango Chicken, a house specialty.

Categories: Peru | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

La Mar – The Quintessential Lima Experience

Posted on September 27, 2026 by Ziggy

Some people eat to live, some live to eat. If you are the latter, Lima should be high on your mental list, if not there already. If you are the former, Lima is not for you. Why selective eaters come to Lima is a small mystery. To see the erotic pre Colombian art at the Larco Museum? The homeless cats of Miraflores? There’s just enough to do and see here to merit a stay for more than one or two nights. But this is the one metropolitan city where food is its number one attraction and main reason to come. And that’s what makes this city so unique.

Some of the famed restaurants in Lima like La Mar are experiences in themselves. The La Mar experience starts months prior to the visit when you start reading reviews and studying the menu. You will quickly find out about the lines to get in, and your reaction may be, “f that, I’m not standing on a long line in a city with so many options”. Hit yourself with your bass fishing tournament participation trophy, or whatever closest. You will be in Lima, a city where you’ll pass the same cat colony 5 times. You’ll have plenty of time to stand on line for 30-60 minutes and be on your phone just like at your hotel room.

Your entire itinerary in fact will be centered around food, especially the day you will visit La Mar. Perfect time to skip the eggs and go for that yoghurt at the breakfast buffet, as hard as it is sometimes. And schedule a small museum like Larco in the morning before Ubering to the main event. In our case we arrived 30 minutes before opening (noon), and were the second couple in line. On the door it listed a capacity of 96, so after a quick math I determined we are in!

La Mar is a world renowned Cevicheria by the local legend Gastón Acurio. Like many Cevicherias in Lima, its open for lunch only. Traditionally Cevicherias were only open while the catch is fresh and available. Even with modern refrigeration and advancements today, they continue to keep traditions alive, but I suspect its also a business decision. Acurio and team are trying to mimic this experience all over the world with branches in Miami, SF, Dubai and more. The NYC location didnt last very long.

The Ceviche was indeed top notch. Fresh, delicious fish, well balanced tiger’s milk, different textures of giant corn (fresh and fried), and more spicy dry mix on the side in case we weren’t satisfied with the heat. And when you do go overboard, there’s sweet potatoes to extinguish the heat. In Ollantaytambo we had an incredible fancied Ceviche, but for a traditional this was simply perfect.

Another strong specialty here is the cold octopus smothered with a black olive and caper sauce that penetrated the octopus just enough to elevate. Our waiter recommended the grilled octopus instead which is an entire grilled octopus meant for a group. Tempting but with only two people a bit too much.

Then came the Causa. Causa is made mostly from layered seasoned mashed potatoes, stuffed with a protein and topped with hard boiled eggs and/or other stuff. In this case it was stuffed and topped with tuna tartare, avocado and eggs. Its bigger and heavier than what you see here, and its absolutely sensational. The challenge was to stop eating while getting full, since more is coming.

And as good as everything was, the lone hot dish was perhaps the best one. Arroz Enchichado, a creamy, slightly spicy risotto like, with hefty pieces of Congrio, Cusk eel in English, but not really eel. Texture somewhere between Halibut and Cod. Rich, comforting, complex, and easily best rice dish of the entire Peru trip.

But its really the sum of all parts. The atmosphere, service, local beer, comfort level, and the anticipation. Sit back and take it all in. Then go to the bathroom, and take in the view of 95 happy food pilgrims and locals. Food was just the icing on the cake.

Categories: Peru | Tags: , , , , | 1 Comment

Markette – Just Another British Owned Euro Caribbean in Chelsea

Posted on September 22, 2026 by Ziggy

First meal after a long trip usually feels like a mixed bag, even if the meal goes well. You are reminded of the quality and vastness of the NYC food scene, but at the same time, the cons get more noticeable. The more you travel, especially for food, the more you evaluate and reevaluate service, environment, and value in your own town.

Even small details, like taking away your credit card, instead of bringing the machine to you, suddenly feel like an adjustment. Why is the most developed country (arguably, I know) in the western world seems so stuck sometimes. And why is it suddenly so hard to get a decent meal for under $200 these days. Now we know how tourists feel.

Apologies to the Markette team who might be reading this strange post. Its not you, its me. You actually created a prototypical NYC establishment in a weird location, that still feels fresh somehow. This is not an easy feat in NYC these days. A Caribbean inspired menu utilizing European techniques may just be what NYC didnt know it needed.

Markette opened about a year ago on a block that rarely sees such openings. 7th Ave in Manhattan in Chelsea feels like middle of nowhere, smack in the middle of the city. When was the last time you went there for dinner?

Chef co-owner India Doris created a menu inspired by her Caribbean roots, and it didnt take too long to create a signature dish as showcased on Eater’s Mise en Place, now on Netflix. Oxtail Gratin – braised oxtail topped with fried cheddar polenta is both comforting and distinct tasting. Watching the Eater special makes you appreciate it even more. There was also Dorade which was just as good, thanks to its addictive sauce you can just drink with a straw.

There are also terrific fried Bacalhau balls with a vibrant scotch bonnet aioli. The one knock was that usually I can easily find more dishes that sounded great. But in this case we had to settle for a fried Okra that was flat and oversalted in comparison. The Peri Peri chicken sounded good but got too much negative feedback for my taste. And the $57 lamb seemed a bit too heavy and pricy considering the meal is already heavy (oxtail) and pricy.

The spacious comfortable room, bar, and Carrol the bartender who laughed at all my dad jokes deserve a mention. Markette seems just the type to bring a first date or meet future in-laws. And the drinks are solid. I especially appreciate a place that can make a riff on Paloma better than mine. Markette also operates The Argyle bar downstairs.

Markette is like that country that gave you a positive first impression, a place you will recommend to others, but you just know you will never come back. Its NYC. Life is too short, and some experiences just meant to be one and done. But there’s much to like here, and I would not have written this if I didnt recommend visiting at least once. Go!

Categories: Chelsea, New York City | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

This is Palccoyo!

Posted on September 17, 2026 by Ziggy

I feel that Peru’s jewels should be periodically reevaluated. Machu Picchu is no doubt stunning, but there’s a reason why I’m opting to write my first ever Peru post about Palccoyo, the other Rainbow Mountain. But before I get to that, did you know that we’ve been mispronouncing Machu Picchu all this time. Its actually Machu PICK-choo which means Old Mountain in Quechuan, the native Inca language. Machu PICH-choo means, wait for it… Old Penis. No wonder no one in Peru wants to correct you.

Machu Picchu got the looks and story, while Palccoyo IMO offers more sheer beauty. The result of millions of years of weathering and mineral oxidation, while being buried under a glacier. Hence the real comparison is with the much more famous Rainbow Mountain, Vinicunca. This is one of those situations where I feel most tourists are making a mistake, and there are good reasons why.

Palccoyo was only discovered right before Covid. Meaning, local indigenous communities of course knew about it, but it only opened to the public in 2018. Only three years after Vinicunca, but a three year head start was enough to put Vinicunca on the global map. Especially since Vinicunca got that showstopper shot at the end of the hike, making it very easy to sell.

Palccoyo doesnt have that money shot. But it takes just 5 minute from the parking lot to see the first of three Rainbow Mountains, and the entire 2 hour hike is as spectacular as I’ve ever seen. There are far fewer crowds (less than 10% of Vinicunca), and it’s a whole lot easier to manage. Vinicunca hike takes about two hours one way, and the hike itself doesnt offer the same spectacular views. Every guide we spoke to told us Palccoyo is the better option, while Vinicunca is the famous option. You see that often in travel.

That doesnt mean there’s no pain involved. To get here, just like Vinicunca, takes around 3.5 hours. Its an interesting drive through country side villages, a far cry from what you’ll see in Lima and even Cusco. The last hour is where the jaw starts to drop. A plethora of colorful bubbly mountains with scores of Llamas and Alpacas grazing on grass

Another factor is the elevation. At 4,900 meters (16,076 feet), you’ll be challenged in ways you didnt know exist. I had to take a breather every 5 steps going up. Under normal circumstances you can do this hike in 40 minutes, not two hours. But the views and various elements like the “Rock Forest” help. Walking down was much easier.

On the way back to Cusco, many if not all the tours of all the Rainbow Mountains intersect at the same lunch buffet. Not my favorite part of the day. I preferred breakfast where it was just us. Seeing our guide and driver order a huge bowl of Cordero (lamb) soup at 7 am, while we munched on our three bite ham and cheese sandwich packed by our hotel was interesting to say the least.

Most tours leave around 4-5 am for some reason. The negotiated 6 am start with David Aragon’s Cachi Life was perfect for us. We were back by 4. A day we will never forget.

Categories: Peru | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Top 10 Things We Ate in Campania

Posted on August 29, 2026 by Ziggy

Without further ado…

Rabbit at Montecorvo (Forio, Ischia)

Starting with a no brainer. Stories, poems, and children books have been written about the Ischian rabbit. Ok, I’m making up stuff here, but it is indeed famous. At this old-timer in Forio you need to order it when you make reservations. And the result is juicy, tender and flavor packed. Like a fine Cacciatore. And just as other traditional places on the island, there’s the option of Bucatini cooked with the rabbit braising sauce.

Lemon Pasta at La Tinaia (Forio, Ischia)

From the outside, La Tinaia doesnt look like much, but inside… not so much either. But once you start chewing, you begin to understand why your taxi driver got so excited. The pizzas for a place not in Napoli are solid, and so are the pastas. But the Lemon Pasta in particular, literally left us speechless. Its unlike anything I had before. And dont even think about leaving without finishing with the Pistachio Cheesecake.

Pasta with beans and mussels at Ristorante da Maria alla Corricella (Procida)

Another no brainer, but hard to pick a single dish from one of the most memorable meals of the trip. Partly due to the location, picture perfect Maria alla Corricella on the island of Procida. Think Positano without the tourists and penis shaped Limoncello bottles. The dish featured various pasta, was hearty, and quite addictive. But also dont skip the prawns, lemon salad, and Carbonara with local tuna.

Montanara at 50 Kalo (Naples)

Pizza rarely makes an appearance on these lists on this blog, but it shouldnt be a shock to anyone that there will be three mentions this time. Starting with the local fave 50 Kalo, and their glorious Montanara (fried pizza). That intense tomato sauce and bite meant ordering Montanara everywhere we went. But none matched this brilliance.

Diavola at Palazzo Petrucci Pizzeria (Naples)

This is one of the most respected Diavolas in the city but also one of the most elaborate with spicy salami, sweet pepper cream, yellow tomato cream, orange zest, and sun dried pepper. I have a love hate relationship with hot honey, but the sweetness here works very well. And sitting on the elevated patio overlooking a quiet piazza is the icing on the cake. Petrucci Pizzeria is a hidden gem in plain sight.

Carnevale pizza at Pizzeria Attilio’s (Naples)

A legendary pizzeria that actually feels like one (to an American at least). Third generation Attilio, same name as his grandfather continuing the traditions including the star shaped pizza his grandfather invented. I first had it at the great 400 Gradi in Lecce. The edges here are filled with ricotta and topped with that famous potent tomato sauce, fior di latte, and sausage. As the name suggests, Carnevale in your mouth

Grilled red tuna at A Taverna d’ ‘e Zoccole (Naples)

Accidentally saved the best meal in Naples for last. And accidentally (I swear) chose a place that loosely translates to Tavern of the whores. Like pizza, Seafood in Naples is no joke, and Zoccole is the place to try it. While every single dish was stellar, it came down to choosing between the Tuna Carpaccio and the sensational grilled tuna. Meaty, fatty, and didn’t need any seasoning. Pure joy with every morsel.

Stuffed Peppers at Trattoria Da Armandino (Praiano) 

Although we ate in other towns, including more acclaimed places in Amalfi Coast, all of our top meals were in Praiano. Starting with this jewel with a picturesque setting by the marina. We just missed Matthew McConaughey who dined here a day before with his family. He was shooting “Positano” with Zoe Saldaña. While every dish was solid, the peppers stuffed with soaked bread that had the consistency of a fine couscous was the most interesting.

Amberjack at KmO (Praiano)

If I had to pick one place that deserves its own post, its Km0 in Praiano. At the helm are two Antonios who could not have been more different, but yet compliment each other perfectly. The young one is the passionate and humble, while his father in law is the cook and quite the character. The thoughtfulness and special attention to detail in every dish is unmatched. Like the perfectly seared Amberjack with Fava Beans and pancetta

Tagliolini with black truffles at Kasai (Praiano)

This is a another no brainer from one of the top dining destinations in Praiano. We witnessed a proposal while dining here, and almost a divorce when she didn’t want to share the Tagliolini with black truffles with me. One of three outstanding pastas. The others were Spaghetti with red squid, and homemade spaghettoni with “scarpariello” sauce, essentially the best red sauce you’ll ever have. But that truffle pasta was absolutely sublime.

Bonus: Lime and pink peppercorn flavored potato chips by PiuGusto.

Our Amalfi boat tour skipper introduced this to us and we couldnt get enough of it the rest of the trip. It was available in just about every grocery store in Amalfi Coast.

Categories: Campania, Italy | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Blog at WordPress.com.