A Manhattan Taco Crawl for the Ages

Posted on June 27, 2026 by Ziggy

If you thought we had a taco moment 5-10 years ago, wait till you try this crawl. No Al Pastor, Chorizo, Baja style were harmed or even seen. Not even a radish sighting. There seems to be an influx of tacos and skills imported from CDMX as of late. It started as a few popups here and there, but now permanent brick and mortars are settling down, especially in lower Manhattan. Prices have gone up of course, but so are the sizes it seems.

Los Tacos No. 1were truly number 1. They were the first to introduce us to Tijuana style tacos in 2013 at Chelsea Market, and 10 locations later they set the bar. Then came the Bushwick taquerias, and Ramirez in Greenpoint that saw lines snaking around the block. Carnitas Ramirez in East Village (part of this crawl) continued the momentum. But the latest imports and CDMX trained talent are taking us to another level it seems.

I took two of some of the harshest taco critiques I know on this one. Two hours with an Intermission in Tompkins Square Park. 9 tacos in 4 stops. Some were shared of course. By far the best crawl I’ve ever done. While I will declare some winner at the end, I would gladly have all these again.

Santo Taco – Opened last October by a Cosme partner. Two locations already and it feels like a potential new chain challenging Los Tacos. Inside its roomy and comfortable. Agua fresca with cucumber and pineapple, very refreshing. Nice quality corn tortillas made right in front. One of our favorite stops.

Shrimp Taco – Good. With cabbage and salsa Macha (the Mexican chili crunch). Could have used more chili crunch which I think is available at the counter.

Mushroom – Excellent. Meaty Cremini/Shiitake combo topped with a Zucchini Flower mainly for aesthetics. I’d order again

Steak Trompo – Their signature. Really good. Just tender and juicy enough. NY strip & sirloin slabs combined to form the meat on the Trompo. Integrates with the tortilla and avocado salsa very smoothly.

94 University Pl

Tacos Domingo – Opened just a few weeks ago. Two locations in CDMX, one in Monterrey. A one trick pony but a good one.

Carne Asada – Thats pretty much all they do. Comes in various shapes and sizes. Expensive but one taco is the equivalent of about 1.5 to 2 elsewhere. Its as good as Carne Asada can be I suppose. It’s not usually my protein of choice, but enjoyed it. As in CDMX, its a lardy, fatty flour tortilla. Once folded its halfway to a Burrito. Recommend

131 1st Ave. Corner of St Marks

Carnitas Ramirez – The only place I’ve been before. A complete nose to tail pig Taqueria. With older sister Taqueria Ramirez, probably our most celebrated taquerias.

Lengua – I just picked my two favorites last time. This was just as good as I remember.

Cachete – Pork Cheeks. Still good. I may be imagining things but I remember a bit more texture when I tried this before. But still quite flavorful, especially when you add the spicy pickled onions. Probably the best condiment of all 4 places.

210 E 3rd St

Beto’s Carnitas & Guisados – Our favorite stop overall. A mom and pop opened in February. Mom worked at Quintonil in CDMX, EMP and The Nomad where the two met. He also worked at Uncle Boons. More of a concept place with Guisados (stews) reigning supreme.

Mushrooms – very good, but a tad on the sweet side and not quite as good as Santo’s. Still I’d order again.

Chambarete en Chile Morita – Outstanding! Beef shank, slow-stewed with marrow bones in a smoky morita chile salsa. As luscious as they get.

Pollo en Mole Verde – Another wowza. Chicken legs braised in a pumpkin seed and sesame based green mole. Her recipe. Mardi Gras in your mouth

69 Clinton St

Winners:

  1. Chambarete en Chile Morita at Beto’s
  2. Pollo en Mole Verde at Beto’s
  3. Mushrooms at Santo

Categories: East Village, Lower East Side, New York City | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

Napoli – Three Days, Three Pizzas

Posted on June 17, 2026 by Ziggy
50 Kalo

For decades I’ve been defending NYC pizza, and claiming NYC the pizza capital of the world. The argument speaks to our culture, and the diversity beyond NYC style, which is really a bastardized version of the Neapolitan. But mainly its the fact that you can find pretty decent Neapolitan these days in NYC.

What makes a good pizza city to me is the proximity to quality pizza from any corner of the city. In NYC you dont need to travel much no matter where you are. But in Naples, you are not just close to good pizza, you are literally surrounded by greatness that could crack the top 10 in NYC. But in order for me to pass the torch, I need to be adopted by a nice Neapolitan family. Now that I added gardening to the repertoire, I dont see how anyone would pass on this opportunity

Choosing pizza in Naples for first time tourists is like, well, choosing pizza in NYC. Except imagine if all the best pizzas were in one borough. There are roughly 1,000 pizzerias in Naples, and 8,000 when you include suburbs. That doesnt include regular restaurants, even seafood joints that serve pizza. The obsession with dough, availability of quality ingredients, and the local pizza culture, makes it very difficult to find subpar pizza in Naples.

What else did I learn.

Neapolitans generally dont eat their pizza with a fork and knife. I’ve been living a lie.

For “individual pies”, the pies were quite large. Two pies can easily feed three.

Compared to NYC, pizza is dirt cheap here. About a third of the price. So very easy to overorder.

Locals pair their pizzas with coke and beer. Even local legend Maradona enjoyed his pizza with coke. Wait, did I assume coke the beverage? 😉

Palazzo Petrucci Pizzeria

So where did we eat. I didnt choose any of the mega touristy legends like Da Michele, Sorbillo, Starita. Although I am intrigued by Da Michele and will probably try it next time. We were 7 people so places that take reservations took precedence, but I didnt budge on quality.

50 Kalo

A highly regarded gem by dough expert Ciro Salvo. Two locations, both near each other and out of the tourist zone, hence the only place where we were surrounded by locals. We chose the newer Piazza della Repubblica location since they take reservations. #12 in the recent best 50 pizza in the world list.

The pizzas were solid all around. Margherita and Diavola were pretty much what you expect from a place like this. Dough was light, airy and delicious, although I preferred a bit more of a bite in some parts. It was almost too soft. The Montanara (fried pizza, top pic) with its intense tomato sauce was a particular group fave which meant we ate Montanara every day in Naples.

Palazzo Petrucci Pizzeria 

Also on the Top 50 list and highly regarded by this guy and others, but sort of gets lost in the shuffle in Naples. Even with the prime tourist location its very easy to get a table or even reserve one. Owners also have a Michelin star restaurant, and the pizzeria has probably the best terrace/pizza quality combo in Naples. Second floor terrace overlooking the lovely Piazza San Domenico Maggiore with that pizza, priceless.

While the sauce of the Montanara here wasnt as intense as 50 Kalo’s, I’d still order it again. The EVA with smoked mozzarella was good, though some in the group found the smokiness weird (same weirdos people dont like Mezcal). The star however was the Diavola. This is one of the most respected Diavolas in the city but also one of the most elaborate, with spicy salami, sweet pepper cream, yellow tomato cream, orange zest, and sun dried pepper. I have a love hate relationship with hot honey, but the sweetness here works.

Pizzeria Attilio’s

If I have to pick one of the three, this is it. But I really liked all three for different reasons. Unlike the other two, Atillio felt like a real Pizzeria, not a restaurant. Its also more popular so requires careful planning. Best to come right before they open or risk waiting. Its in the middle of a vibrant street market in the Spanish qtr. Third generation Attilio, same name as his grandfather, very much present inside. He’s been helping out in the restaurant since he was 6 after his dad sadly passed and his mom was running things.

One notable app here was the excellent Crocchettone, a massive potato croquette. With the way Italians name things I’m surprised they didnt name it Pene di Cavallo. Its stuffed with provola, broccoli rabe, and bits of sausage. The pizzas were light and great as expected. Atillio was one of the first to dish out star shaped pizzas with the points filled with ricotta. I particularly liked the salami strips in the Diavola, but every pie was exceptional.

Categories: Campania, Italy | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Lola’s – Scrumptious Farm to Ziggy in NoMad

Posted on June 9, 2026 by Ziggy

Lola’s is a two year old acclaimed establishment in NoMad, or Flatiron depending on who you ask. On paper, just looking at the menu, it’s the kind of place that frankly I’m getting tired of in NYC. Hefty prices for creative dishes that lack substance. Generally in NYC plates are getting smaller, prices higher, but flavors are more or less stuck. I can think of a few meals as of late that demonstrate this. Even high end meals that we enjoyed during the past few years lack that oomph to justify a return.

Travelling, even to mega touristy destinations in Europe keeps that narrative intact. Even in seemingly expensive destinations like Amalfi Coast we encountered lower prices at restaurants partly due to less than half the amount of staff. Somehow restaurants all over Europe manage quite fine without a host, busboys and a sommelier while offering the same level of service.

Lola’s

Oy, maybe its the post vacation blues talking. Lola’s, while not a clear exception to the rule, certainly feels like it. A veggie centric, Pan-Asian / New American created by a chef that knows a thing or two about such mashups. Not only Suzanne Cupps is Filipino on her father’s side, but she started her career at Annisa with Anita Lo, one of NYC’s Pan-Asian, New American pioneers. Cupps followed that with Gramercy Tavern, Untitled, and other gigs with Union Square Hospitality. A resume that certainly got my attention, before the NYT 100 list got everyone else’s.

Simply put this was one of the best meals we had during the last year or so. While I normally find things to complain about as you well know (its a gift), I struggle here. The lighting, vibe, space, food, everything just about perfect. Maybe the cocktail list could use some revamping, but they do have my favorite beer (more below).

One thing I really liked about Lola’s is the calmness of the open kitchen. No one shouting, ringing a bell, and any stress is not in full display. In many such places these days, it feels like I’m inside an episode of The Bear.

On to the food…

House made Naan with carrot masala yogurt – Sure it would be nice to get these things for free, like the good ol’ days (there he goes again), but this bread/dip combo is as good as it gets. Like a high end restaurant pita and buttery naan love child.

Crispy Chicken Thighs – Just about the perfect fried chicken. It had the crunch, the juiciness, the flavor, everything. Like a nice Japanese Chicken Karaage

Paraison House Salad – Caesar on crack. Instead of croutons, she adds those salty hard pretzels you see in Union Square Market. A lot of USM influence here.

Barbecue Short Rib – With baked beans. Satisfying comfort food. The sweetness of the beans cuts some of that richness. It’s just maybe a tad too old American for this new American. Maybe the only dish I wouldnt order again, but liked it.

Carolina Gold Rice Grit Cakes – Didnt sound too promising but curiosity took over. Superb! If I have to pick one dish that demonstrates Cupp’s skills, this is the one. The small amount of Japanese curry and sweet potatoes add much depth.

Chocolate Chip Cookie – Normally I wouldnt order, but oldest who already had it (she lives 5 mins away) said its a must and she was absolutely right. Maybe the best cookie I ever had. Another cameo appearance of the Union Square hard pretzels.

Leche Flan – Good. With passionfruit caramel and blueberry preserves. Maybe a little too dense. The cookie was better.

And they have Hitachino Nest Yuzu beer which means I dont even look at the rest of the drink menu. But Mrs Z struggled to find something and got stuck with an average but very pricy Margarita. Regardless, go!

2 W 28th St

Categories: Gramercy, Flatiron, New York City | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

This is Procida

Posted on June 2, 2026 by Ziggy

A hop and a skip from Naples is one of Campania’s remaining hidden jewels. While tourists, mostly Americans, do the trains, planes and automobiles pilgrimage to Positano and Amalfi, Neapolitans hop on a quick ferry to the island of Procida. Most tourists we met on the Amalfi Coast havent even heard of the more famous Ischia, let alone its little neighbor Procida.

Whats so special about Procida? Only everything. Its like Positano without the tourists and Limoncello in penis bottles. Winning the coveted Capital of Culture prize in 2022 put Procida on the map, but mainly for Italians. I’m told, the residents are honored but would prefer the island to remain as is.

I first heard of Procida from Katie Parla years ago. So when we finally decided to visit Campania, Ischia and Procida became a priority, and ultimately replaced Capri. Easy decision after seeing Positano, and being told Capri is even more crowded.

To visit Procida, you can take a ferry from Naples, Ischia, or hire Giovanni from Dolce Vita to take you there which is what we did. Giovanni offers private boat tours from Ischia for around half the price you pay in Amalfi Coast. He will take you to picture perfect Marina di Corricella, Procida’s crown jewel, and let you explore the area on your own.

The cool thing about a boat tour is seeing Corricella from the water. But the classic shot from above is a short walk to Belvedere Corricella where we met an enthusiastic school group visiting from Naples. Their teacher told us to try the local octopus. You dont have to tell me twice.

Giovanni recommended Ristorante da Maria alla Corricella for that Octopus, right by the dock. Octopus with potato salad was just what the doctor ordered. We also indulged in mixed pasta with beans and mussels, gorgeous sweet Prawns, and a sublime carbonara with local tuna instead of guanciale. But one particular appetizer stole the show.

When life gives you lemons in Procida you make a Lemon salad, not lemonade. Procida has its own huge, ugly lemons with the kind of sweetness and low acidity that rivals the one from Amalfi. It can be eaten on its own or as in this case, a salad with balsamic vinegar. Outstanding stuff in one of the most beautiful villages in Italy.

Categories: Campania, Italy | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Notable Eats April-May 2026

Posted on May 14, 2026 by Ziggy

Its that time of the year. The NYT Top 100 list is out and people on Social Media are losing their minds. The list is like eye candy for food enthusiasts with all sorts of juicy nuggets. It includes many cheap joints, albeit random in the grand scheme of NYC dining. But the expensive places are the usual suspects and ranking them all is like ranking apples and toasters. Imagine asking what’s better, a tiny Tamale shop in Harlem or Le Bernardin.

The list inspired me to write about some of the best eats during the last few months. Most in Manhattan and Brooklyn as usual. One in Staten Island for my Staten Island readers. Both of you.

Wagyu Flat Iron, Shrimp in Butter sauce at Shmoné (West Village) – The first Israeli to receive a Michelin star in the US. A fun and relaxed counter seating. Nothing extraordinary about the shrimp themselves, but with that butter sauce it would make NOLA chefs blush. And the steak with that tomato and tahini sauce is pure melt in your mouth awesomeness.

Chili Pan Mee at Pig & Khao (UWS) – First visit to the UWS location after many meals at the original in LES. A culture shock to say the least. From hip to hips. Meaning many mothers with children at this location. Much larger space but pretty much the same menu, and the same sick Chili Pan Mee. The French Toast for dessert not too shabby either.

Hummus from Gazala’s (UWS) – I went over this already. Still haven’t had better in NYC.

Tum Strawberry at Rynn (East Village) – Rynn has become our go to Thai in East Village. But boy oh boy lunches are so much more relaxing than dinners. The place is no longer a secret, and neither are dishes like the Tum Strawberry. Pure magic.

Mochiko Chicken at Cotra (Brooklyn) – This Japanese is top 3-5 in Brooklyn for me these days. Every time we go we discover new dishes, like the cod last time. But regulars like the sick fried chicken are absolute musts. Cotra is the type that is liked by locals but you would never see on a NYT best list because of lack of marketing.

Everything at Mtskheta (Brooklyn) – You wont find any of the Georgian wine featured on Drops of God season 2. But the wine at Mtskheta is good and cheap, and so is the food. This has become my go to for large groups. NYT lists Tone on the list, quite high, but I prefer Mtskheta.

Falafel at Falafel Tanami (Brooklyn) – Speaking of the NYT list, looks like they removed Tanami. What changed? Absolutely nothing, except a new location two blocks away.

Dan Dan Noodles at Schuan Kitchen (Staten Island) – The name is not a spelling error, and the location is not autocorrect. Chinese food in Staten Island slowly but surely getting better. This tiny fast-casual is the first real Szechuan on the island, at least as far as I know. The excellent Dan Dan, String Beans, and dry spicy chicken have become our musts.

Categories: Brooklyn, East Village, New York City, Staten Island, Upper West Side, West Village | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Gazala’s – Hummus and the City

Posted on April 26, 2026 by Ziggy

Just a bit further afield, in a remote area of the city I call Upper West Side, the legend lives on. In fact its right next to another displaced legend, Pig & Khao. Its like the forming of an EWZ classics refugee camp. Add a Song’ E Napule branch, one of our Neapolitan standouts, along with Miriam, Malka and more, and just like that, the UWS is not as bad anymore.

That means spending some time in the area can yield some delicious results, and tough choices. But since I had much of the day last Sunday, I just picked both legends. Brunch at Pig and Khao, long stroll in blooming Central Park, Jim Gaffigan at the Beacon, followed by dinner at Gazala’s.

Inside Gazala’s it doesnt feel like a legend. It feels like a regular casual Middle Eastern restaurant, even though it bills itself as “Mediterranean”. The difference can be subtle, but to me its closer to classic Middle Eastern. Gazala’s is still the only Druze Restaurant in the US. Yes, I Google this from time to time when I make this statement. Taboonia, opened by a Nova festival survivor, opened and closed within a year or so, but that was more of a fast casual Druze, not a full service restaurant.

The original Gazala’s was of course one of the staples in Hell’s Kitchen. I spent many hours there, including introducing it to co-workers and tourists as part of my original food tour (still suspended and have no plans to resume sorry). Visiting the UWS location, tasting the flavors, and seeing some familiar faces brought many memories.

Druze is an ethnic group living in villages in Israel, Syria and Lebanon. They have their own unique culture, and known particularly for their hospitality. In 2012 we were able to experience that just outside of Haifa, right next to the village where Gazala Halabi came from. She immigrated to NYC in 2001 and pretty much has been cooking for New Yorkers ever since. The original Gazala’s was featured on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, NYT, Eater, and most importantly multiple times on EWZ.

The menu hasnt changed much. The classics are still the classics, and the Hummus is still some of the best you’ll find anywhere. We had a light meal after the marathon brunch at P&K, and as usual nothing but winners.

Boureka Tomato – One of the specialties since the beginning. You can have it with spinach but I’m partial to this one. A beautiful flaky combination of homemade cheese and sun dried tomato. It can feel a bit heavy so best to share.

Hummus Mosabaha – Hummus is one of the least exciting items a blogger can write about. I probably lost some followers when they read the title. But Hummus can indeed be a revelation. At Gazala’s its silky smooth, perfect consistency, and just the right flavor you’d expect from fresh Hummus. I bought extra to take home, and enjoying it with hard pretzels and whatever else I can dip there.

Moshakal – Like a grilled meat platter, and roughly 80% terrific. Didnt care for just one of the meats. The marinated grilled chicken in particular is excellent. This easily feeds two so that’s the end of the post. Go!

447 Amsterdam Ave

Categories: New York City, Upper West Side | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

4 Days in Miami Beach and Beyond

Posted on April 14, 2026 by Ziggy

We have good news and bad news. First the good news. Miami’s food scene has seen a total transformation during the last 10 or so years. Walking around Miami Beach is like strolling around a NYC neighborhood. So many familiar faces like Lucali, La Grande Boucherie, Hasalon and many more. Many of which are much easier to reserve. But its not just the NYC connection, and not only Miami Beach. Wynwood and Downtown areas seem to be taking off as well.

Now, the bad news: Miami’s food scene has seen a total transformation during the last 10 or so years. Just copy and paste the good news. With the influx of business comes oversaturation, closures of iconic places, and skyrocketing prices. There are even new pricing trends we noticed, like charging 20% gratuity automatically while giving the option to add more that will go directly to your server.

Nevertheless, as a visitor, Miami is an embarrassment of riches today. In fact I was so overwhelmed, I went to two dinners on one night to experience two places that are totally different. Something I’ve never done before. Here’s the recap…

Bella Miami Beach

One of two Bella’s on the list. This is first Italian opened by the famed Israeli chef Eyal Shani who owns essentially an empire across the world: Miznon, HaSalon, Port Said, Malka, are just the NYC spots. While the appetizers here like the farro salad and Crudo were fairly standard, and not great value respectfully, the mains rocked. The roasted Branzino could not have been cooked better. And a superb Tagliatelle with Lamb ragu. All in the comfort of a pleasant hotel courtyard, served by a brilliant Argentinian waiter. 236 21st St, Miami Beach

Bella Cuba

The other Bella is another, well, “Bella”. A return visit for us, and how is this place not packed every time is beyond me. We pretty much settled on Snapper fillet and the comforting, flavor rich oxtail on each visit. The location tucked outside Lincoln rd feels like a hidden gem (maybe thats why its not packed), and the servers always seem happy. 1659 Washington Ave, Miami Beach

Stubborn Seed

The only Michelin Star in Miami didnt disappoint but didnt overly impress either. This is a highly acclaimed gem by Top Chef winner Jeremy Ford. They now accept reservations at the bar area where you can choose a la Carte which is decent value for a Michelin. Every dish like the Schiaciatta roll, Poblano Agnolotti, Truffle Chicken, and Bravas featured the kind of brightness, flavor and texture combinations one would except in a Michelin joint. But I suppose not enough wow to try again anytime soon. 101 Washington Ave, Miami Beach

La Leggenda Pizzeria

The Diego Maradona pictures and Napoli style oven means we are already halfway to greatness. The only thing left is a capable Pizzaiolo. Check! Light, airy delicious dough (Like eating a cloud), and a solid Neapolitan overall. While I appreciated the Margherita special, the Diavola flavors truly popped. Nifty Calzones to boot. 224 Española Wy, Miami Beach

Queen 

This may raise some eyebrows. If you know, you know. Queen is not the type of place you’ll find on this blog. Its a glamourous 40 million reinvention of the old Paris theatre, offering Asian, mainly Japanese fair, a DJ and other live music. Its an experience, and opulence on another level. In order to convince myself to come to a place where food is not the main focus, I booked two dinners. Even on my birthday I think about ways to please Mrs Z. Luckily the food (sushi, octopus, tuna carpaccio) was more than satisfying. 550 Washington Ave, Miami Beach

On to Broward (short and sweet)…

At Peru

Looks like a tourist trap off the Hollywood boardwalk but still our favorite Peruvian in the area. 907 N Broadwalk, Hollywood

Motek

Essentially a nation wide Israeli chain these days but food is generally good and creative (especially the breads). The Aventura mall location is perfect for large parties.

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Mtskheta Cafe – New Location, Same Awesomeness

Posted on March 31, 2026 by Ziggy

Just a friendly reminder that Mtskheta is still awesome. Probably top 5 if not 3 in Brooklyn for me these days. Good enough to trust them with a large group birthday party. Georgian food in south Brooklyn is still relatively affordable compared to the rest of the city. My friends thought I made a mistake when the bill was $60 per person after tax/tip and plenty of Georgian wine.

Speaking of Georgian wine, if you havent seen yet, I highly suggest watching the second season of Drops of God on Apple. During the meal, I called an old Georgian friend who recommended to me Mtskheta, and of course we had to talk to about Drops of God. While the Georgian reds at Mtskheta wont be life changing, they are cheap ($25!) and serviceable. Click the original post to see what to order. The only dish I would add to the list is Khinkali which I havent had since the first time. I still find these Georgian dumplings hard to eat, but the flavors are quite something.

Mtskheta Cafe – Eating Well, Spelling Pourly

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Brooklyn Picks Refresh

Posted on March 19, 2026 by Ziggy
Best Restaurants in Brooklyn – Mapped

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10 Best Things We Ate in Basque Country

Posted on March 2, 2026 by Ziggy

Just when we finally started seeing our sidewalks again after the previous storm, we got hit with a much bigger one. 27 inches fell in my neck of the woods. Speaking of necks, that’s halfway to my neck. A good time to reminisce about one of the best food trips we’ve ever done, this past October. If you are planning to go, not only you’ll have some juicy nuggets here, but you can pretty much use this as a “where to eat in Basque Country” guide. Top four are in French Basque.

Kintoa Pork at Choko Ona (Espelette)

I could have listed plenty of other dishes like the onion, but the pork was a standout. The name of the breed comes from back when local farmers had to pay the king a fifth (Kintoa) of their pigs as a tax. Its a rich but still delicate taste thanks to the expert cooks of One Michelin Choko Ona. The meat is perfectly cooked medium-rare, with supreme tenderness and juiciness. Served with leek and some sort of pesto, along with saffron pilaf rice and delicious Jus.

Mushroom Omelette at Pil Pil Enea (Saint-Jean-de-Luz)

I’m a sucker for a good Mushroom omelette and this was a jaw dropping wowzah. A master class in super fluffy, buttery omelette. I wasnt expecting to see so many omelettes in French Basque menus. And perhaps I should have stopped with this one as the next one I ordered in the same town wasnt nearly as good.

Monkfish at Ezkia (Bidart)

We have a love hate relationship with Monkfish these days. When its on its on, but on occasion, it’s less than stellar (I’m looking at you Eunoé in Paris). Some either work with this fish for the fist time or trying to be too innovative. At Ezkia in the tiny village of Bidart, the young chef got it right. Expertly cooked pieces swimming in a complimentary rich seafood bisque. Back to love.

Dessert at Les Frères Ibarboure (Bidart)

As soon as you get to the hotel and taste the cookie waiting for you in the room, you’ll get the sense that dessert here is no joke. After all, half of the brothers Ibarboure, Patrice, a Daniel alum, is a master pastry chef. At their renowned One Michelin, they dazzled us with their sweet creations. Mrs Z proclaimed the chocolate dessert, “best chocolate thingy I ever had”. We usually share but she got all weird in this case. Though I was extremely happy with my fig masterpiece.

The Mika at Bar Gran Sol (Hondarribia)

Bar Gran Sol is a multiple Pintxo award winner, and one of those awards is the sensational Mika. Shrimp and bacon in beer tempura and other goodies on an onion toast. Named after the cook who created it. While the egg mollete gets much of the hype here, the Mika is the one to get, along with the BBQ Rib. Come before they open for a drink and a table, otherwise risk long lines.

Rice paella with duck breast at Artean Barra Abierta (San Sebastián)

Picking a favorite dish from this hidden gem in food heaven San Sebastian is like picking your favorite child. Easy. Whoever calls more. Just like the steak tartare and every dish we had at Artean, this is as close to perfect you’ll ever get. Besides the duck and rice, you got mushrooms, and a terrific aioli tying everything together. Fantastic texture and flavors throughout, especially if you appreciate a good socarrat. Artean is run a by a Peruvian couple with extensive cooking experience. Book your flights before they get a Michelin star.

Besugo (red Seabream) at Xixario (Orio)

Whether its the famous Turbot of Getaria, the outrageous Basque Chuletón, or Besugo in Orio, the culinary richness of this region is too vast to fit into this post. A Besugo experience was on my list this time around. The only question was which of the handful or so Orio institutions to pick. While most tourists head to Joxe Mari, I opted for the more local Xixario, and have zero regrets. The result is meaty, vinegary, yet very light, and simply glorious. And dont sleep on the shrimp either.

Mushrooms with egg at Ganbara (San Sebastian)

The place and the dish are not exactly a secret. In fact in order to have this you’ll most likely need to spend an hour or so on a line. It’s worth it for the entire Ganbara experience. The dish is simple but quite excellent. A mix of Chanterelles and Cepes (Porcini) with egg yolk. Couldn’t get enough of the mushrooms on this trip. But what sets Ganbara apart is the amount of awesomeness besides the signature Mushrooms. One of which is the sensational shrimp in garlic sauce.

Grilled Cremini mushroom at Bar Soriano (Logroño)

While not exactly in Basque Country, it’s close enough and the area shares some of the same culture. The town of Logroño is like San Sebastian light, including in the cost dep’t. A Pintxo crawl here will most likely result in about half of the cost in San Sebastian or Bilbao. Start the crawl at Bar Soriano where they make only one item, a gorgeous skewer of grilled Cremini with olive oil, a small shrimp, and bread to soak all the juices. Walk around town and you’ll see more trying to mimic the same dish. Also try the mini Kobe beef cutlets at Torres Gastrobar

Chuletón at Txakoli Simon (Bilbao)

If you are a meat lover, you havent lived life to the fullest until you tried the marvelous bone-in ribeye steak from any of the Asadors offering it in Basque Country. Bilbao residents make the pilgrimage to the hills for this sprawling institutions, mostly for the glorious steak. It arrives fairly blue but with a grill for you to cook it as long as you wish. Plenty of funk, deep flavors, without much salt required. If you dont have reservations, you are directed to a picnic table and serve yourself. With reservations, you get full service.

Bonus: Any dish followed by a tour of the kitchen at Martín Berasategui

A wow and wower experience. I can pick about a handful of dishes that were spectacular and it would be criminal not to mention this here. If you want to add one three star to your food itinerary in Basque country, make it this one. I’ve done the homework for you with a tasting. You can read about it here.

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